Sharon King Hoge

Turpan locale
One of China’s most interesting tourist destinations was for centuries an important supply stop on the Northern Silk Road. A green oasis in the middle of the desert, Turpan is located in a depression over 200 feet below sea level in what is called China’s “Death Valley” registering extreme temperatures that can range from 120 degrees Fahrenheit in the summer plunging down to 20 below in winter. Average rainfall is barely half an inch, but an ingenious irrigation system capturing mountain runoff results in a lush green landscape more analogous to California’s Imperial or Napa Valleys. In its fertile well-watered soil melons, cotton, and grapes grow abundantly making it a land of wine and fruit — and history.

View of Turpan

Key to Turpan’s survival is its extraordinary karez system. The largest underground canal network in the world, it is listed along with the Great Wall and the Grand Canal as one of the three wonders of ancient China. In an elaborate scheme dating back to the first century, groundwater has been channeled underground through an elaborate “pipeline” of submerged channels, emerging as surface canals which end in giant reservoirs to supply water all year to the arid area. Shafts 90-150 feet deep were dug, over 172,000 of them (!) for access to establish and maintain the subterranean flow.
Models in the Keraz Museum on the outskirts of Turpan illustrate ancient construction methods used to excavate the shafts and visitors can walk along a glass path suspended literally over underground channels which are still flowing today.

Keraz museum models

Keraz Museum glass walkway           Waterflow emerges from underground channel

Without irrigation, the region registers less than an inch of rainfall per year, and the ultra-arid climate has helped preserve some of the world’s great ancient treasures. About an hour’s drive east of town lie the sprawling remains of Gaochang. Founded in the second century BC, it was a thriving city that served as the region’s capital from 900-1400 AD. Roughly three and a half square miles, its population once numbered 30,000. Still standing are remnants of the outer walls, temples, imperial palace, and acres of chunks and columns — remarkably intact since they are not stone, but composed of sun-baked earth.

Gaochang ruins

Gaochang structure

A mile away, at Astana Cemetery where residents of Gaochang were buried, the dry heat has preserved underground tombs containing artifacts and remarkable paintings of gods, ducks, birds, and landscapes. Down one passage, where they were interred centuries ago, the mummified remains of a husband and wife still lie in repose.

Astana cemetery

Astana Grave

Before departing on the arduous Silk Road Trek, it was a custom to pray and leave tribute for good luck. On a high cliff in the valley of the Flaming Mountain are the Bezeklik Thousand Buddha Caves, a stretch of painted caverns once marvelously adorned with paintings of nobles, musicians, gods. Peering down from overhead are rows and rows of Buddha faces, thousands in each cave. Of the original 57 chambers, 83 remain still showing traces of the vivid illustrations. Early 20th century explorers confiscated many of the paintings and several that had been sent to Berlin museums were lost during World War II bombing. But three or four caves are open to visitors and at the entrance camels wait to give tourists a ride.

Thousand Buddha Caves Site

Camel at Thousand Buddha Caves

Just five miles east of town, lying between two rivers, are the ruins of the world’s best preserved earthen city. Jiaohe is only a fraction of Gaochung’s area, but far more of the city structure remains. Sections designated for temples and residences of aristocrats and common people are separated by a main boulevard stretching from the South Gate. Other sections were reserved for warehouses, military barracks, guard houses. Wandering along its broad 2000-year old avenues, visitors can make out windows, storage niches, temple columns, fortifications, in homes and forts that were flourishing 2000 years ago.

Jiaohe ruins

Jiaohe warehouse

While many of Turpan’s historic sights can be seen in a day, travelers staying longer can visit other attractions — the bowling pin shaped Emin Minaret is the tallest minaret in China, a Uighar village, salt-encrusted Ayding Lake, second only to the dead sea as the lowest lake in the world. Grape Valley and local wineries offer tastings. Dim sum, roast duck, pan stickers — plus dozens of varieties of local raisins — can be sampled at numerous restaurants and outdoor markets.

Turban hot pot stand

Restaurant fare

Or it’s pleasant just to spend time in town the picturesque town with prosperous stores lining leafy boulevards and busy shopping streets which lie between the green expanses of Renmin Park and the lake in the center of town.

Turpan Lakeside

Turpan shopping street

Early morning music accompanies locals doing daily exercises in a pavilion on the lake, and all day long visitors can mingle among locals in modern dress or traditional Uighar garb — mothers pushing strollers, children spinning pinwheels, youths chatting on cell phones, elderly gentlemen lingering at tea.

Turpan shoppers                                            Uighur family

Peddler of plums

Travel advisors suggest visiting Turpan via the nearby Xinjian capital of Urumqi, either flying to Urumqi and driving down to Turpan, which takes about three hours on the new divided highway or alternatively by driving to Urumqi after arriving by train in Turpan via Xi’an. Stopping over in Urumqi, tourists have a chance to visit its outstanding Xinjiang Autonomous Region Museum which exhibits many artifacts excavated from Astana along with displays on jade, folk costumes, and the evolution of the Silk Route.

Xinjiang Museum

Artifact from Xinjiang Museum

More ancient than the hills, yet too new to be listed in China guidebooks, the breathtaking and mammoth Enshi Grand Canyon and nearby Soaring Dragon Cave are only beginning to emerge as major international tourist destinations. American travelers can be “pioneers,” among the first Westerners to visit the gigantic cavern and the extraordinary gorge, 60 miles long and 4500 feet in depth, cutting through the mountains of western Hubei province.

Less than a decade ago, it took more than sixteen hours to travel from the major central city of Wuhan west along primitive roads to the remote mountainous area inhabited by secluded ethnic tribes. Taking steps to improve tribal living conditions, the government set about creating what has become an emerging destination to one of the country’s great national parks and what is claimed to be the world ‘s largest cave now as close as a four-hour 120 mph, high-speed train ride plus hour-long drives onward from the namesake city Enshi.

Arriving at Enshi Grand Canyon, visitors can spend a day or two climbing both down and up — descending to the foot of the canyon than heading upward to explore it’s prominent peaks.

Entrance to the Enshi Grand Canyon

Entering Enshi Grand Canyon Park

From the park entrance midway down the gorge, a walkway leads past lush greenery and numerous waterfalls to the Qinjiang “Clear” River at the bottom.

Bridge across the Grand Canyon

Grand Canyon bottom

Heading upward, a gondola carries passengers to a mid-point from which stone paths ascend farther past prominent landmarks.

Tourists ascending in gondola

Midway along, hikers walk the Cliff Corridor hugging the side of the ledge toward the “Welcoming Pine” clinging to the edge of a knoll, the outstretched “Sleeping Beauty” rock, “Twin Peaks,” and another rock configuration depicting a mother and child.

Cliff Corridor

Twin Peaks

One of the trail’s most notable landmarks is the solitary isolated column dubbed the “Incense Stick.”

Incense Stick                                   Plaque Honoring Dean Potter
It was adjacent to this pillar that recently deceased American daredevil Dean Potter in 2012 stretched a 150-foot long cable, refused any support, and made a mind-boggling, ten-minute passage across a chasm 5500 feet above sea level.

Trail signs suggest allowing four hours for the hike from the gondola back down to the tourist center, but although the full length is paved, both ascent and descent are strenuous and some hikers hire friendly sedan chair porters to help them along. An outdoor escalator also provides an assist for a portion of the way down.

A Comfortable Sedan Chair

Intrepid hikers can trek in and stay overnight at the Xiacuchung Hotel which is perched right on the mountain. Single rooms to suites run around $100-$150.

Xiacuchung Hotel

Local residents provide overnight lodging in their homes for around $30 including breakfast. Alternatively, nearby in the emerging Maidens’ Village vacation complex travelers find restaurants and accommodations. Named for the local festival where single boys and girls can mingle at the fair, the brand new “village” offers comfortable rooms with balcony views out toward the precipice with rates starting around $100.

Maiden Village Hotel

Maiden Village Hotel Reception

Maiden Village Hotel Bedroom

Currently many tourists chose to stay an hour away in Enshi, the bustling regional capital, a metropolis of parks and commerce spread along the same Qingjiang River that meanders through the Grand Canyon.

Enshi Shopping Area

Enshi Riverside

Situated grandly in the middle of town is the Palace of the Tusi Chieftains. A complex of fanciful buildings where the Tusi peoples honored their heritage has been opened as a tourist site. Its nine levels of wooden staircases and pavilions enclose a museum of silver artifacts, depictions of the revered White Tiger, and giant sandstone statues of fierce warriors along with souvenir shops selling colorful local costumes, and an outdoor booth to vie at archery.

Tusi Palace

Chieftains

Palace of the Tusi Chieftains

Tracing the Qingjiang River further back, travelers can drive an hour west on the superhighway through thickly forested mountains to Lichuan to visit another natural wonder, Tenglongdong or Soaring Dragon Cave, claimed to be the largest cave in the world. Burrowing over 36 miles into the hill, the gigantic cavern stretches up over 750 feet at its highest point.

Entrance to the Soaring Dragon Cave

The Cave Interior

Cave Exit

Efficient electric trams take visitors through the walls to a giant cavern where a daily laser show depicts the legend of a dragon who fell in love with a woman and was banished to be a mortal. Closer to the entrance, an elaborate stage show celebrates customs of the local Tui and Ba ethnic populations depicting a harvest festival, a wedding ceremony and a dance in which young men enact the ancient warriors’ test of climbing barefoot up a pole on knife-blade steps.

Laser Light Show

Culture Show

Adjacent to the entrance, a giant waterfall marks the start of the underground portion of the Qingjiang River which runs submerged for around 17 miles before emerging and making its way along to Enshi and beyond.

Qingjiang River Waterfall

Entrance to the Underground River

Back on the outskirts of Enshi city, a prosperous local tea farmer is building a colossal hotel and restaurant complex, all its buildings and facilities interconnected by a two-mile long corridor. Rooms at the Hua Long Group Hotel are outfitted in modern versions of Oriental furnishing with all the contemporary conveniences of coffee makers, hair dryers, and over 100 channels of cable TV. A school is included within the “hotel village,” and weekday mornings at 6 am guests are awakened by band music accompanying two groups of over 1500 students in their regular morning exercises.

Students Exercising
It is a colorful display for visitors exploring this once inaccessible region a new “frontier” which tourists and travel agents are only beginning to discover.

Hua Long Hotel

Bedroom at the Hua Long Hotel

For tourists seeking to explore China beyond the Beijing/Shanghai basics, an excellent “starter city” is Chengdu, the capital of Sichuan province in the southwest. Once a silk brocade capital, it is pleasantly situated on the banks where the Jin and Fu Rivers intersect. It’s central Tianfu Square still boasts a giant statue of Mao — directly facing the CitiBank branch, and from there it is easy to shop, sightsee, and sample street foods. A major center for business, industry, and education, Chengdu is a hub for flights within China and easy to get around once you’re there. Here are ten introductory assets of the “Brocade City”:

#1 PANDAS

Not counting the diminishing forests where they actually originate, Chengdu is China’s “Panda Central.”
Just on the outskirts of town in the parks and gardens of the Giant Panda Breeding Research Base, scientists study and breed both the popular black and white giant pandas and their raccoon-like red cousins.

Visitors who arrive before 9 a.m. can watch the blasé creatures chomping on the special species of bamboo which is meticulously harvested and carted down from the forests to feed them.

#2 TRADITION

Nestled among the downtown skyscrapers are two neighborhoods which have been preserved and re-created to represent the streets of old.

Souvenir and food stalls alternate with cafes and restaurants in Jin Li and Kuan Xiangzi –even the Starbucks is “old fashioned.”

#3 FOOD

In the capital city of Sichuan its notable cuisine is everywhere… in restaurants and inexpensive hot pot shops and stalls scattered liberally around town.

Barbecue skewers and stuffed pineapple are popular street foods.

Tea is a ritual here and teahouses are popular hangouts where people can hang out sipping unlimited refills while they read, chat, relax.

#4 TEMPLES AND HISTORIC SITES

Historic sites are found within picturesque parklike settings: Wuhou Ci is the burial site of Emperor Liu Bei and Wenshu Temple is a series of halls and pavilions dedicated to Buddhist gods.

The thatched cottage of famed Tang dynasty poet DuFu is a modern re-creation, but charming nonetheless and in beautiful surroundings.

#5 ANCIENT HISTORY

Sheltered in a giant pavilion of the Jinsha Museum are the sprawling remains of a settlement dating from 2700 BC.

Spectators can walk along the boardwalks peering into what’s left of ancient houses, burial pits, and ritual areas. A second building displays artifacts uncovered in the archaeological excavations.

#6 RIVERSIDE

Winding through town, the Jin River provides a pleasant ambience for strolls, playing Chinese checkers, or angling along the banks linked with Ginkgo trees.

#7 EMEI SHAN

One of two popular day trips from Chengdu, sacred Mount Emeishan, provides thickly forested trails for hikers, and restaurants and a temple and statue of Bodhisattva Puxian’s six-tusked elephant at the top.

At the foot of the mountain, Hong Zhu Shan is a serene and elegant spa and resort with hot springs, meeting rooms, restaurants, and bars for relaxation.

#8 THE GIANT BUDDHA

Another popular day trip, near Chengdu, is a visit to the world’s tallest Buddha in Leshan. Carved directly into the red sandstone cliff, 71 meters or 233 feet tall, the calmly seated figure is so big that it’s said half a dozen people can stand on his big toenail alone. While an elaborate park surrounds the top and people can gather around his head, the immensity of the figure is best seen from the river below.

#9 TRANSIT

As in all cities, these days, traffic jams aren’t avoidable, but Chengdu has regular bus service from the airport, a central Metro system on the main axis, and numerous taxis with fares as little as $5-$6 for a half hour’s ride. When all else fails, motorcyclists may offer a lift for under $1.

#10 VALUE

Accommodations are another value. Deluxe rooms at global chains such as at the riverside Shangri-La run around $200, and travel agents can arrange discount rates.

At Hello Chendu Youth Hostel, an immaculate private room with en suite bathroom and crisp linens is priced in the $25-$30 range.

A major hub on the Yangtze River, where it intersects with the Han downriver from the Three Gorges Dam, Wuhan is a “triple play” created in the 1920’s when what had been the ancient villages of Hankou, Wuchang, and Hanyang joined to form what has grown into one of China’s largest cities.

Now sprawled across peninsulas, recovered marshland, and river deltas, connected by ferries, tunnels, and 1200 bridges it is rapidly modernizing — cranes and construction are everywhere. But they don’t distract from the offerings of this long time historic city.

#1 THE BUND

Colonial bank building
Lining the street that was was formerly the riverbank, Wuhan’s version of the Bund is still lined with the handsome colonial buildings built to house the offices of the British, French, Russian, German, and Japanese traders. Many now are converted to restaurants and nightclubs. The ornate Oriental-influence structure that now houses City Hall was a once a German outpost.

#2 RIVERSIDE PARK

Riverside Park
Opposite the Bund, stretching over ten miles along the Yangtze, the world’s longest river side park is designed with plantings and fountains, statues of nationally famous athletes and Olympians, and dozens of machines for impromptu exercise.

Bronze relief of bronze workers
One series of bronze sculptures depicts the history and residents of the port of Hankou.

#3 YELLOW CRANE TOWER

Yellow Crane Tower
Perched high on a hill overlooking the Yangtze, Yellow Crane Tower, the symbol of the city is a bright red and yellow tiled five-story pagoda, once a watergate to protect residents within the city wall. Climbing its 188 steps provides wonderful views over the three boroughs and outlying districts.

Yellow crane
A tiled wall mosaic depicts the legend of the crane. In olden times it was said that an old man painted it on the wall of a tavern in order to settle his bill. At times the crane would fly off the wall to dance and entertain guests before one day disappearing.

#4 MUSEUMS

Hubei Provinical Museum
Of ten themes to the exhibits in the Hubei Provincial Museum, notable is a collection of magnificent bronzes illustrating the genius of Zhou craftsmen three centuries BC. But a favorite exhibit is the diverse objects excavated from the 443 BC tomb of dignitary Marquis Yi. Elaborately painted suitcases, gold cups, horse trappings, weapons, and the coffins of 22 sacrificed concubines were among the items meant to serve him in the afterlife.

Marquis Y’s bells
A collection of sixty-five bells was found intact and they comprise the heaviest musical instrument on earth. Next door is the city art museum and nearby the 1911 Revolution Museum commemorating the city uprising which led to the overthrow of the Manchu Dynasty.

#5 EAST LAKE

East Lake ink morning mist

East Lake sightseeing boat
Of the city’s 166 lakes, most favored is East Lake, a picturesque park and scenic area with a botanical garden, plum and cherry groves, lotus blossom ponds, over 500 species of kiwis.

East Lake
Sequoia lined causeways, little harbors, floating restaurants, quiet benches, paddle boats add to the many charms of the park which is classified as one of China’s top 40 Scenic Sites.

#6 MAO MEMORABILIA

Mao Flood Memorial
Raised in next door Hunnan province, Chairman Mao was very fond of Wuhan and spent time here at a large villa which can be rented out for overnight stays. It’s said that it was in Wuhan that he got the notion of swimming the Yangtze while watching local construction crews cool off by jumping in the river. A memorial on the Bund commemorates his efforts to control the devastating flood of 1954.

#7 HAN PEDESTRIAN STREET

Crowds on Han Pedestrian
A modern mall, designed to reflect the quaint styles of the colonial past, Han Pedestrian Street is lined with restaurants and shops and crowded on weekends with shoppers, sightseers, and families.

#8 WANDA MOVIE PARK

Wanda Movie Palace
A 21st-century version of Disneyland, Wanda Movie Park is a series of experiential films. Guests are shaken in their seats through “volcanic eruptions,” sprayed with mist as a “tsunami” roars over them, swooped through the clouds following the city’s mascot crane on a tour of the province.

Floor show in Wanda
Wandering cartoon characters and break dancer floor shows add to the attractions in the multi-floor complex.

#9 FOOD

Every meal offers delicious, exotic new taste experiences at formal restaurants, sidewalk cafes, storefront food stalls.
dinner including Mao’s favorites
Not to miss are the city specialty Wuchang fish, a top choice of Mao, along with two others of his favorites: braised pork in black bean sauce and ultra spicy fresh fish cooked in chili sauce.

#10 PEOPLE

Students, railroad hostesses and people in the park
Student volunteers, vendors, guides, hotel staff, travel advisors are friendly, warm, helpful, hospitable. Cheerful, welcoming local residents help with logistics and love to practice their English lessons calling out “thank you and “hello.”