Croagh Patrick, Ireland

IrelandMay 2018

Photo: © FRANK BACH | DREAMSTIME.COM

By  – May 1, 2018

I HAVE TO CONFESS, CROAGH PATRICK is still on my bucket list. Rising on Ireland’s northwest coast right beside the sea in County Mayo, the stately mountain — actually a high hill — is one of the island’s sacred spots. Back in the year 441, St. Patrick is said to have fasted there 40 days and 40 nights, interrupting his vigil to drive all the snakes into the sea. The ascent has become a pilgrimage site for devoted Catholics, some said to make the ascent barefoot or on their knees. It’s also a popular destination for hikers and for hardy locals who jaunt up once or twice a week just for exercise.

In pilgrimage season, April through October, the mountain can be mobbed with a few hundred people a day sauntering up and back, children holding their parents’ hands, joggers skipping from rock to rock. I’ve summited Kilimanjaro and trekked up to Everest Base Camp, so I figured this glorified hill would be a bit of a jaunt. A tendon in my heel was still sore after a recent curb misstep, but I expected a mere bit of discomfort as I strolled up what I assumed would be a gentle path.

Not exactly. Once I passed the Visitor Centre and statue of St. Patrick and climbed a short flight of stairs, reality set in. Hundreds of pilgrims and hikers eroded the path into a rough surface of loose stones scattered around protruding rocks. There was no clear footing, especially since I was favoring my tender ankle. For a few euros, climbers can buy or rent a recommended hiking stick at the bottom, but I had brought along the cane I’d been using to help my ankle injury. Even with that extra support, it was slow going.

Famine Monument sculpture

FAMINE MONUMENT SCULPTURE © VINCENT MACNAMARA | DREAMSTIME.COM

It might have helped if I could see where I was headed. The path veers east off to the left before turning west up to the peak. But the customary mist had settled in, and clouds secluded Croagh Patrick’s upper reaches. Nor was there any sight of the intermediate destinations along the way.

Climbers first reach a rest stop, described matter-of-factly as “the toilets.” Farther along at the first station, a pile of stones, the prescribed ritual is to walk seven times around the cairn which commemorates the bones of St. Patrick’s follower Benain, attacked by blackbirds on the spot. The second station is the actual hilltop, with a small chapel which seats a few dozen worshipers and offers views of the meadows and stone fences to the east and the 300 Aran islands dotting the shore below. The truly committed descend 500 feet down the west slope to a third station, cairn Reilig Mhuire, which calls for its own recitations of homilies and prayers before a climb back up to the summit to turn around and return the way you came.

I have yet to pay my devotions at any of those spots. After hobbling along for more than an hour, I encountered fellow climbers who turned back since “the weather was worsening and the last part of the climb, to the cone, is the hardest.”

I hate to be a quitter, and I hadn’t even reached “the toilets.” But I was worried about slipping down the loose gravel, and, sure enough, once I turned back, the downhill slide was harrowing. Seeing my dilemma, a kindly little girl on the trail donated her stick to help me balance. Without that gift I might have had to call a rescue squad. As it was, with the cane and stick propping me up, balanced between them, I took two hours to inch back down.

Ruins of Murrisk Abbey

RUINS OF MURRISK ABBEY © TIMOTHY KIRK | DREAMSTIME.COM

I’ve vowed to return. Not only do I have to fulfill my “bucket list” assignment, but the region is rich in tourist activities. At the foot of the mountain, a ghostly Famine Monument portrays the coffin ships that brought immigrants to America. The stone ruins of Murrisk Abbey on the site of St. Patrick’s church retain the frame of a oncegrand window.

For hikers and cyclists, the Great Western Greenway, a converted rail trail, winds 26 miles from Achill Island to the charming riverside town of Westport, where visitors can shop for hand-knit sweaters and shamrock key chains in stores retaining their vintage façades. A guided visit through the 30 period rooms of stately Westport House illustrates the lifestyle of bygone gentry.

Westport Harbour hotels offer spa treatments, dining and dozens of atmospheric pubs. Travelers can book tours with local outfits to nearby Clare Island to see the castle of 16th-century pirate queen Grace O’Malley or arrange trips for fishing, cycling, kayaking and heritage walks. I’m looking forward to trying out some of the options when I return next spring to conquer Croagh Patrick, once and for all.

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Beirut: Step Lively

LebanonMay 2018

Photo: Downtown Beirut © DIEGOFIORE | DREAMSTIME.COM

By  – May 1, 2018

ON THE LONGEST STAIRWAY in the Middle East, 129 steps and 18 landings separate two of the most colorful neighborhoods in Lebanon’s cosmopolitan capital city. The historic St. Nicholas staircase links Beirut’s trendy Gemmayze district upward to Sursock, the fancy avenue lined with grand mansions and elegant high rises of the past and present gentry. Both areas still show signs of the devastating effects of the civil war that raged 1975–1990, but structures decorated with arched windows, ornamental ironwork and ornate cornices witness a lively lifestyle dating from the era when this city was called the Paris of the Middle East.

The stairway landing is tucked off Gourand Road, one of the city’s liveliest streets (locals just call it Main Street), lined with boutiques, cafés and clubs. Storefront restaurants offer fresh croissants, sushi, pasta, sandwiches, pizza slices and hamburgers. A few doorways to the west of the steps, the longtime local favorite café, Le Chef, offers daily fresh specials of homemade food “like my grandmother’s kitchen.” After dark, clients comfortably sipping cocktails and local Beirut beer while engrossed in their laptops populate the street’s cozy clubs and dimly lit pubs.

Halfway up the steps, the Grand Meshmosh café provides a hangout for visitors sampling turnip and fennel soup, eggplant moussaka and slices of dense carrot cake. Farther along, My Luxury Outlet sells elegant shoes, bags, luggage and other leather goods by Longchamp, Lancel and Fratelli Rossetti at steeply discounted prices.

Port of Beirut

PORT OF BEIRUT © THINK DESIGN MANAGE | DREAMSTIME.COM

Signs at the top of the steps designate the district “Caractere Traditionnel,” and directly across the street is the former Maison Tarazi, dating from 1908. It sits a few doors down from the three-story 1912 villa of aristocratic art collector Nicholas Sursock, converted to a notable museum highlighting regional and contemporary art. Lights blaze from its stained glass windows at night, and Sursock’s book- and memento-lined study and ornate Oriental Arab Room ringed with divans convey a sense of the grand lifestyle that once prevailed here.

Storefront shops sell high-end art and antiques and the exquisite mini-mosaic rings and brooches of jeweler Nada Le Cavalier. Around the corner at the far end of the street, the grand old theater of the Metropolis Cinema screens first-run American and international films.

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Bags, Bracelets, and Beaus at the Hat Lunch

by Sharon Hoge in New York Social Diary

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Mark Rios

Designer Interview Q&A’s

Innovative gathering places around the globe are recent achievements of Los Angeles firm Rios Clementi Hale Studios, a firm renowned for multidisciplinary projects—complete environments that celebrate the unique qualities and memories of each place and its culture.—Sharon King Hoge  Read More

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RCR Arquitectes

Designer Interview Q&A’s

For this architecture-focused issue, we contacted RCR Arquitectes, 2017 winner of the prestigious international Pritzker Prize. Based in Catalonia, Spain, it is acclaimed for innovative use of materials, light and color in projects tied to the landscape and context of the locale. —Sharon King Hoge

Download the complete article from Cottages and Gardens March 2018

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Ghislaine Viñas

Designer Interview Q&A’s

For this color-focused issue, our compass pointed toward designer Ghislaine Viñas who inserts vivid tones and hues into residential and commercial interiors. Designer of wallpapers for Flavor Paper, her new line of fabrics for HBF Textiles will be introduced in June.—Sharon King Hoge

Download the complete article from Cottages and Gardens February 2018

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Explore the Philippine Islands

DestinationsMagazineMarch 2018Philippines

Photo: © AKARAT PHASURA | DREAMSTIME.COM

By  – March 1, 2018

LUZON MAY BE DOMINATED by the bustling capital city, Manila, but there’s another unique location on the largest of the Philippine archipelago’s 7,500 islands. Vigan, the country’s only UNESCO World Heritage site, lies 250 miles north along the west coast, facing the South China Sea. A visit to its cobblestone streets and Philippine/Oriental fusion architecture offers an opportunity to experience the historic charm of one of the best-preserved Spanish colonial towns in Asia.

Now part of the mainland as a result of silting in the Mestizo River, originally the city was an island settled by early Chinese immigrants who developed a major Silk Route port. They called it “Beautiful Shore,” or Bee Gan, a pronunciation corrupted by the Spanish who arrived in 1572 to take over the thriving post trading gold, timber and beeswax. Known then as Villa Fernandina in honor of a Spanish prince, its vivid history evolved during the mid-17th century into a hotbed of dissent against the Spanish overlords who assassinated revolutionary Diego Silang and publicly hanged his wife and successor, Gabriela. During World War II, the arrival of the Japanese Army escaping American bombers spared the city from destruction. Today, its three interconnected main squares preserve the ambience of colonial times.

With a population of just more than 50,000 and few automobiles, the compact city is easy to explore on foot, by horse carriage and tricycles. Fleets of horse-drawn kalesas clip-clop through the city, charging only about 150 pesos ($3.50) per hour. Less nostalgic but faster and more efficient are tricycle taxis — sidecar motorcycles that whiz passengers anywhere in town for less than a quarter.

Following the customary Spanish “Law of the Indies” town plan (a grid anchored by a central plaza or park), Vigan grew up around Plaza Salcedo, today dominated by a pool surrounded by religious and administrative buildings: the Casa Real and Municipal Hall and the Bishop’s Palace beside massive, thick-walled St. Paul’s Cathedral, named for the city’s patron saint, St. Paul the Apostle. Designed to survive, the church was created in the Earthquake Baroque style, low and wide with heavily buttressed side walls to withstand tremors. As a further precaution, the belfry stands beside the church, detached to avoid collapse onto the main structure. Chinese details on the brass communion handrails provide signs of the locale’s multicultural mixture and is typical of the amalgamation of Chinese, Spanish and American influences on the buildings throughout town.

Pinakbet

PINAKBET © RECYAP8 | DREAMSTIME.COM

Right beside the cathedral — and unusual to the traditional Spanish design — a second public square, Plaza Burgos, presents a lively scene of food stalls peddling local snacks. Diners can sit at picnic tables and try arroz caldo, chicken porridge; soupy miki, noodles; ukoy, deep-fried shrimp mixed with flour and eggs; poqui-poqui, mashed eggplant and egg; and the city’s famous fluffy but crunchy empanadas. Homesick travelers can opt for a three-piece hearty meal at the picturesque “vintage-style” ochre plaster McDonald’s.

Plaza Burgos honors Padre José Burgos, the 19th-century Roman Catholic priest whose martyrdom sparked the Philippine Revolution. A few blocks west, the rambling 18th-century building that was his home now holds the Burgos Museum, where exhibited relics chronicle his life. Discouraged by the clergy’s support of harsh Spanish practices, he wrote an open letter “To the Spanish People” arguing for reform. When soldiers and workers mutinied, Padre Burgos was arrested in retaliation and executed by garrote in 1872 in Manila.

Steps away, Old Town, or the Mestizo District, comprises 24 city blocks lined with pastel-hued ancestral homes. These authentic and faithfully restored mansions, designed in a combination of Oriental and Spanish styles, boast arched windows, filigree wrought-iron trim, crenellated awnings and ventilated walls. In some, the ground floor has been converted to shops selling a plethora of souvenirs — pottery, curios, baskets, thousands of flip flops — to browsers who shop while their patient horses stand at carriages along the main thoroughfare, Crisologo Street, closed to motor traffic.

While many homes remain in private hands, a few open to the public enable visitors to get a sense of the past lifestyle. Visitors can make an appointment to see the vintage wood furniture, curios and oil paintings of the Quema House, while Syquia Mansion, former home of President Elpidio Qirino, includes a collection of presidential memorabilia. One large mansion converted into the Crisologo Museum displays everyday family artifacts as well as the trousers and sunglasses local Congressman Floro Chrisologo was wearing the day he was assassinated in 1970 while attending mass in the Cathedral.

Mindoro Island

MINDORO ISLAND © EFIRED | DREAMSTIME.COM

Swimmers can hire a tricycle for the 15-minute ride to the black-sand expanse of Mindoro Beach. Another outlying option is the quirky 40-minute cruise on the Mestizo River. Colorful open boats covered with awnings paddle the narrow waterway while an audio guide describes five “tableaus” constructed on the bank. Life-size costumed mannequins populate the diorama scenes depicting Vigan’s history from pre-colonial times through the 1572 arrival of Juan de Salcedo and on to an elaborate exhibit celebrating the local products of trade: weapons, vinegar and fish paste.

For dining, local fare assimilates regional, Chinese and Spanish dishes. The province’s specialty Ilocano cuisine features local vegetables enhanced with sweet, sour and salty flavors. In pinakbet, bitter melon, eggplant, squash and okra are cooked with bagoong, fermented shrimp, or bagnet, sun-dried pork belly, fried crisp before it’s mixed with the vegetables. Soupy variations of pinakbet include dinengdeng, principally squash cooked with fewer vegetables, and dinoydoy, which balances the flavors of squash and bitter melon. Only the adventurous need sample pork blood-based lumo soup and the sinanglao mixture of beef broth and innards. Local sugarcane wine accompanies meals.

For a colorful conclusion to the day, enjoy the nightly fountain show. At 7:30 p.m., Plaza Salcedo lights up with sprays and spouts of water dancing to tunes ranging from the Titanic theme to the Philippine national anthem.

Philippine Islands Info to Go

Hardy travelers can opt for the drive or bus trip, a scenic six-hour ramble up Luzon’s west coast through quaint villages, past mango groves, maize drying in the sun and distant mountains. More realistic is the hour-long flight from Manila (MNL) to Laoag (LAO), the nearest airport; from there, taxis and shuttles make the 40-minute drive to Vigan. Philippine Airlines flies the route two to three times daily, and the fare costs about $150.

Where to Stay in the Philippine Islands

CORDILLERA INN Rich history and modern facilities, past and present, meet in 24 refurbished, air-conditioned, pristine white rooms with traditional wood furniture and gossamer netting looped over fourposter beds. 29 Mena Crisologo St. $$

HOTEL LUNA With laudable location, service and food, the Philippines’ only museum hotel showcases art in historic, ornately decorated whitewashed rooms overlooking an arcaded courtyard surrounding the pool. Luna Street $$

HOTEL VENETO DE VIGAN This recently renovated, centrally located, rambling white plaster edifice features a coffee shop, bar and restaurant and also offers free WiFi, airport transfers and plenty of parking spaces. Bonifacio Street $$

Restaurants in the Philippine Islands

CAFÉ BIGAA This cozy converted pub serves a Vigan sampler for diners who want to try the local bagnetand pinakbetVigan Plaza Hotel, Mena Crisologo Street, Plaza Burgos $$

CAFÉ LEONA Casual and conveniently located, this long-time favorite serves Philippine specialties and popular brick-oven bagnet pizza. Its outdoor tables draw an evening crowd. Mena Crisologo Street $$

LILONG & LILANG Located within the Hidden Garden two miles west of town, this Asian-inspired outdoor restaurant is a place to find authentic local Ilocano cuisine served in the ambience of tropical plants and flowers. Hidden Garden, Barangay Bulala $$

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Dallas’ Diverse Opportunities

February 2018United States

Photo: Dallas at twilight © SEAN PAVONE | DREAMSTIME

By  – February 1, 2018

THE CITY’S NICKNAME, “BIG D,” could stand for Big Destination as companies and job applicants discover unlimited opportunities in the flourishing Dallas-Fort Worth Metroplex of central Texas. Midway between America’s two coasts; a transportation hub of interstate highways, railroads and two busy airports; and with the country’s fourth-highest ranking of Fortune 500 companies, the country’s ninthmost populous metropolitan region teems with projects and programs designed to foster business and growth.

In an economy based on banking and commerce, telecommunications and computer technology, energy and transportation, health care and medical research, the Metroplex boasts one of the largest U.S. concentrations of corporate headquarters for publicly traded companies. Since 2010 more than 75 national companies relocated to the region. Toyota moved thousands of employees to its new Legacy West headquarters in Plano, MoneyGram picked up stakes and moved in from Minneapolis, and Jamba Juice transferred its offices from California. Factoring in expansion of local firms, more than half a million new jobs have been added to the market.

Enhancing a city seen as “a shining example” of business opportunities, the Dallas Regional Chamberworked with member companies to create programs targeted to attract business and talent. A strategic plan of 2015 named initiatives to promote future growth by ensuring good local education and attracting workers and firms to the area.

Recognizing millennials are the key to the future, the DRC launched “Say Yes to Dallas,” a key program enticing talent with diverse job opportunities; an affordable cost of living; unique neighborhoods; unlimited access to parks, culture, arts, sports and entertainment; and “something for everyone.” The sayyestodallas.com website incorporates a jobs portal, cost of living comparison calculator, neighborhood descriptions, articles on dining and entertainment options and testimonials from contented new residents.

Describing Dallas as “the best place to live, work, and do business,” the website dfwfacts.com aims at corporate recruitment. The site promises a welcoming environment with a wealth of resources. The region’s attractive quality of life, strong regional and state economy, low cost of living, skilled labor force, pro-business mindset and absence of corporate and personal income taxes all contribute to the thriving Dallas region. How-to blueprints on figuring taxes, recording registrations, relocating employees and startup processes are provided.

Already a city of colleges, universities and trade schools, Dallas bolsters its efforts with a commitment to supporting and improving education to ensure every child has the tools needed to one day enter and compete in the workforce.

Yoga at Klyde Warren Park

YOGA AT KLYDE WARREN PARK © RITU JETHANI | DREAMSTIME

Vast city improvements back up these outreach efforts. Downtown, an urban green space now covers a once divisive section of the Woodall Rodgers Freeway. This new Klyde Warren Park provides walking trails; parks for children and dogs; a performance pavilion; and daily sessions of lectures, yoga and concerts.

To relieve the notorious congestion on I-635 — aka the Lyndon B. Johnson Freeway — that loops the city, a 13-mile stretch of the northern side has been rebuilt and expanded with a section of six new underneath lanes operated as TEX-Express. Tolled for congestion pricing, the lanes effectively double the thruway’s capacity and ease commutes to the newly developing Dallas Midtown, a city within a city of office towers, condo units, luxury hotels, restaurants and boutiques, hiking trails and gyms, a theater and a trolley system linking it to the Galleria Dallas mall.

Bus service and the nation’s longest light rail network support commuters. America’s largest contiguous arts center and the million-square-foot column-free exhibit hall of the Kay Bailey Hutchison Convention Center are additional attractive features of a city aiming to become “the most economically prosperous region — and the most desirable place to live, work and do business — in the United States.” DRC vice president Jessica Heer projects unlimited potential: “Project activity is still strong, there is a lot of growth in population and companies, our future is bright.”

SCENIC DRIVES

For an excursion, follow the Dallas Cowboys out to Frisco, where the team relocated its world headquarters and practice fields to The Star, a brand-new, 91-acre campus incorporating a state-of-the-art indoor stadium, restaurants and shops. Guided tours allow fans to see Super Bowl memorabilia; take a stroll along the Nike Star Walk, chronicling 10 milestones of the team’s history; and view the War Room, where the annual NFL draft is conducted. Nearby sports complexes house local hockey, baseball and soccer teams and the National Videogame Museum, where visitors can play on the world’s largest Pong console.

Just 20 minutes northwest of Dallas, Irving is home to the Toyota Music Factory, offering concerts and performances in many of its two dozen restaurants and bars, including a branch of the popular Alamo Draft House Cinema that screens films for dining movie fans. Adjacent Las Colinas features Old World Mandalay Canals, a section of office buildings, shops and restaurants where visitors stroll along tree-lined paths beside swimming waterfowl. A breathtaking bronze sculpture of nine wild mustangs gallops across pink granite Williams Square, and an essential stop includes partaking of squash enchiladas at Via Reál, a beloved Southwestern-style restaurant.

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Ankara’s Modern Ambience

January 2018Turkey

Photo: View of the Citadel © EVGENIY FESENKO | DREAMSTIME

By  – January 1, 2018

THE LAND OF WHIRLING DERVISHES, the Trojan horse, the underground cities of Cappadocia and the charismatic founding statesman Kemal Atatürk, Turkey is rich in culture and lore. While İstanbul, lively and cosmopolitan, straddles Asia and Europe, it is Ankara that embodies a sense of the country’s ancient and modern history.

 

Turkey’s second-largest city offers a range of opportunities for you and your traveling companions to immerse in authentic lore: the State Opera and Ballet; the Presidential Symphony Orchestra; and an array of museums focused on topics from artillery and aviation to meteorology and land surveying, postal services and telecommunications. But three specific attractions present a real sense of Turkish tradition: the Old Town clustered around the ancient Citadel, the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, and the enormous hilltop Anıt Kabir mausoleum of the country’s larger-than-life founder, Mustafa Kemal Atatürk.

While modern office buildings and trendy boutiques and cafés prosper in the Çanikaya and Kavaklidere districts, sightseers can head toward Ulus, the older part of the city. Dating back to the seventh-century Byzantine age and overbuilt on 3,000-year-old Hittite ruins, the imposing pentagon-shaped Citadel (Hisar) serves as an ongoing symbol of the town. Incorporated into its inner and outer rampart walls, stones with traces of Greek and Roman script indicate the fortification may have been built in haste 10 centuries ago to protect the city against Arab invaders. Entering through the Finger Gate (Parmak Kapısı) and heading straight ahead toward the center, up a steep slope you come upon the Eastern Tower (Şark Kulesi). Climb this newly restored favorite spot for kite flyers to get panoramic views. Nearby Alâeddin Camii is the city’s oldest mosque, with an attractive arched exterior.

Within the ramparts lies the picturesque Old Town (Haamonii) of winding cobbled streets. While gentrification gradually supplants its ramshackle charm, the neighborhood retains the atmosphere of a traditional Turkish village, with women sorting skeins of wool and patrons sipping coffee at streetside cafés. Elaborate Ottoman mansions have been converted into restaurants, coffee shops and boutiques. In Art Street, shoppers can browse at the handicrafts market where local women sell rough leather handbags, colorful crocheted blankets, vivid patterned carpets and elaborately embroidered handkerchiefs. You can visit the interior of one of the typical houses; the home of famous Turkish poet Mehmet Akif Ersoy, located not far from his statue stationed in the middle of the central square, has been converted to a museum and archives.

Also nearby, in a restored 15th-century covered market, or bedesten, stands the acclaimed Museum of Anatolian Civilizations. Exhibits displayed in chronological order and with English captions trace the history of every major civilization that played out in this region, such as Paleolithic bone fragments and primitive stone tools, Neolithic mother goddess statues, Hittite stag sculptures and Roman coins. The remains of a 9.8 million-year-old monkey discovered here — named Ankarapithecus after the city — testify to the region’s importance since prehistoric times.

In contrast to the ancient artifacts, an imposing mausoleum honors the “Father of the Motherland,” the country’s iconic founder. Kemal Atatürk first rose to prominence during the War of Independence. After organizing resistance and winning battles that expelled Greek forces, the charismatic hero of Gallipoli emerged to create a Turkish nation. Assuming the name Atatürk, meaning “Father Turk,” he set about introducing reforms and creating a modern state. Ankara, at the time a dusty village on the steppes, occupied a secure location. After declaring it the capital, Atatürk developed it into an urban showcase intended to impress the rest of the world. A center of universities and foreign embassies, the city was constructed in the Fascist monumental, symmetrical, cut-stone architectural style exemplified in his colossal memorial, built from 1944 to 1953 and considered the ultimate monument of the era.

Soldiers marching in the changing of the guard ceremony at Anıt Kabir

SOLDIERS MARCHING IN THE CHANGING OF THE GUARD CEREMONY AT ANIT KABIR © EVREN KALINBACAK | DREAMSTIME

Anıt Kabir sits on a hill within a park planted with trees and flowers donated by countries from around the world. Visitors approach via Lion Road, an 860-foot-long marble promenade lined on both sides with 12 pairs of lions carved in the Hittite style, symbolizing power and peace. The massive Ceremonial Plaza can accommodate 15,000 people on a multicolored travertine marble floor depicting Turkish rug designs. Columns frame steps leading up to the marble tomb, and each of 10 symmetrically arranged towers represents an ideal that influences the nation: independence, peace, victory, reform and the like.

Inside the monument, a museum chronicles the emergence of the Republic and illuminates Atatürk’s life. A section on the 1919–1922 War of Independence contains weapons, documents and panoramic views of the battlefields with three 100-foot-wide wallsized dioramas depicting significant battles. The three-dimensional pictures of flaming fortifications, exploded tanks, barbed-wire barriers and wounded soldiers are enhanced with dramatic sound effects of screams and cannons firing.

You’ll find various aspects of Atatürk’s life and legacy depicted in a series of niches. Along with official treaties and documents, you can view a large collection of Atatürk memorabilia and paraphernalia including his tuxedo, rowing machine and Cadillac car, plus jewel-encrusted swords and gifts from fellow statesmen. A gift shop at the exit sells Atatürk key chains, paperweights, daggers and copies of his books. Turks retain a strong reverence for Atatürk, and as many as a million people a day file through the monument to express their respect.

Every hour on the hour in the main courtyard, visitors crowd around to view an elaborate changing of the guard. Soldiers decked out in metal helmets and military uniforms colorfully wield their rifles in precision maneuvers.

İskender

İSKENDER © ALP AKSOY | DREAMSTIME

Cuisine remains an essential facet of the Turkish experience, and Ankara’s Old Town area is rich in restaurants offering local dishes. Kebap skewers are a regional specialty, in particular the popular İskender — chunks of lamb on crumbled bread topped with yogurt, hot tomato sauce and browned butter. High-proof, anise-flavored raki may accompany meals, and candied chestnuts (kestane sekeri) are popular sweets.

Ankara Info to Go

A high-speed railway connects Ankara to İstanbul in around three hours. Infrequent international flights arrive at Ankara Esenboğa International Airport, renovated in 2007 and located 17 miles northeast of downtown, with shuttles transporting arriving passengers into the city center. Two subway lines cross the city at right angles, and much of the town is easily walkable.

Where to Stay in Ankara

ANGORA HOUSE HOTEL Six rooms with carved wooden ceilings, fine linens and attentive service provide charm in this restored 200-year-old traditional Ottoman house in a convenient location at the foot of the Citadel walls. Kale Mahallesi, Kale Kapısı Sokak 16 $$

DIVAN ÇUKURHAN HOTEL An overarching glass roof encloses the grand central lobby of this 5-star boutique hotel offering individually decorated rooms in a restored 16thcentury kevansaray opposite the main entrance to the Citadel. Tarihi Ankara Kalesi, Necatibey Mahallesi Depo Sokak 3 $$

RIXOS GRAND ANKARA HOTEL Locals consider this refined modern hotel with spa, swimming pool, restaurants and convention facilities a must for travelers seeking luxury. Kavaklıdere Mahallesi, Atatürk Blvd.183 $$$

Restaurants in Ankara

KINACIZADE KONAĞI Atatürk himself is said to have stopped by this typical Ottoman house before it became a restaurant serving typical kebaps and savory stuffed crêpes which can be topped off with honey walnut gözleme. Kale Mahallesi, Kale Kapısı Sokak 28 $$$

ULUDAĞ KEBAPÇISI A staircase encircles the multilevel dining rooms where diners seated beneath blue light fixtures sample quintessential İskender kebap in this half-century-old traditional restaurant. Denizciler Cadessi 54, Ulus $$$

ZENGER PAŞA KONAĞI Rustic décor and panoramic city views add atmosphere in this restored 18thcentury mansion serving traditional dishes, with dancing to live Turkish music. Kale Mahallesi, Doyran Sokak 13 $$$

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A Tour of Portugal with the American Friends of Versailles

Friday, January 5, 2018  –  by Sharon Hoge  – In New York Social Diary

Liberally sprinkled with Bourbons, Beauharnais, Orleans and other descendants
 of noble French families, Portugal was a fitting destination for the American Friends of Versailles annual tour.  Raising funds to restore the peeling painted Baroque ceiling of the room where guards were stationed to keep watch on Marie Antoinette’s suite of Versailles apartments, the group sponsors annual trips overseen by Princesse Beatrice de Bourbon des Deux Siciles, herself a scion of those noble lineages.  This year about two dozen of us joined her to visit historic monuments, sites, estates — and her relatives — in Lisbon, Evora, the Duoro Valley and Porto. Continue reading

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Hotel Angmagssalik in Tasiilaq, Greenland

Hotel Angmagssalik in Tasiilaq, Greenland

Story and photos by Sharon King Hoge in Luxury Web Magazine

Hotel Angmagssalik in Tasiilaq, Greenland

The dictionary definition may not allow leeway, but in some circumstances “luxury” is a relative term. A case in point is the Hotel Angmagssalik in Tasiilaq, Greenland.  While it would rate as modest, compared to customary five-star standards, it is the “all-star” accommodation in the principle settlement on the remote East Coast of Greenland.   Travelers come to go dog sledding and to view the majestic glaciers and ice floes clogging the straits and fjords.  After an hour or two flight from Copenhagen or Reykjavik visitors land in Kulusuk and are transferred by helicopter or boat to the village where they arrive and look up the hill to see the bright blue hotel stretched along a ridge high above. Continue reading

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Doing Business in Dubai

November 2017United Arab Emirates

Photo: © SBOSTOCK | DREAMSTIME

By  – November 1, 2017

MINGLE A CHORUS OF ‘‘What a Wonderful World” with a few bars of “Getting to Know You” and maybe add a dash of “I Didn’t Know What Time It Was,” and you have a theme song for entertaining clients in a city full of international attractions where networking provides an important introduction to business dealings (which may not always start on time). Dubai has its own routine. Clients like to get to know you before signing on; the attitude toward time is relaxed; and locals are accustomed to a glamorous, elegant, international lifestyle.

Businesspeople familiar with the city say it’s almost impossible to take local clients to venues they don’t already know. Instead, for mutual convenience they book a hotel in the Dubai International Financial Centre near the Jumeirah Emirates Towers, where most international corporations as well as the local royals maintain offices. “You never go wrong there, staying at one of the top hotels,” explains Danny Sebright, president, The U.S.–U.A.E. Business Council.

With the Sofitel, Sheraton Grand and the Jumeirah World Trade Centre among half a dozen choices around the financial district, a favorite remains The Ritz-Carlton, Dubai International Financial Centre, with décor marrying classic Art Deco design and elegant traditional Arabic elements. Extensive event and meeting space in The Ritz-Carlton features the Samaya Ballroom, decorated with more than 1,000 antique mirrors and a ceiling embedded with crystals. The hotel’s seven options for dining include restaurants specializing in French, Italian and Belgian cuisine as well as the Center Cut Steakhouse. Regular guests and those in Ambassador Suites have access to The Ritz-Carlton Club Lounge, where they can entertain executives in its stylish atmosphere with complimentary food and drinks.

Similarly, the Shangri-La, also located near the DIFC and the World Trade Centre, provides the Horizon Club for exclusive guests, as well as Vietnamese- and Chinese-themed restaurants and the lobbyside Dunes Café international buffet. Venues at the Jumeirah Emirates Towers, where the country’s ruler can often be seen, include The Rib Room and Mundo, specializing in international cuisine.

While traditionally the best dining venues have been located within hotels, look to impress top executives at the acclaimed exception: the French bistro La Petite Maison in the 10-tower DIFC Gate Village. “It’s a who’s who at meals,” Sebright observes. One of the most expensive restaurants in the Emirate, its menu features Cuisine Niçoise, a Mediterranean blend of Genoa and Nice.

Tourists meet the sunrise on the observation deck of the Burj Khalifa tower. © TOXAWWW | DREAMSTIME

TOURISTS MEET THE SUNRISE ON THE OBSERVATION DECK OF THE BURJ KHALIFA TOWER. © TOXAWWW | DREAMSTIME

While people doing business with locals might not venture to touristy spots, consider a trip to the top of the world’s tallest building, Burj Khalifa, as an attraction for out-of-town clients. The Observation Tower on Level 148 truly sits at the top of the world. Twenty-six floors down, find an exclusive option at At.Mosphere restaurant’s private dining room, seating no more than 16 guests. Nearby venue attractions scattered around the mammoth Mall of Dubai offer places to dine near its aquarium, ice skating rink and renowned colorful dancing fountain show outdoors. Consider the exclusive Armani Hotel Dubai restaurant located on the mall’s ground floor, or treat guests to an authentic American experience at Shake Shack, Le Pain Quotidien, Magnolia Bakery, Rosa Mexicano or Red Lobster, all offering branches within the mall.

A meal at the 52nd-floor Observatory restaurant in the Marriott Harbour Hotel & Suites gives overseas visitors a chance to look down upon the showcase manmade Palm Jumeirah islands branched out below. Located in the center of the Palm crescent, entertainment resort Atlantis, The Palm offers a totally global array of eatery options: British chef Gordon Ramsay’s Bread Street Kitchen, Japanese Nobu, Italian at Ronda Locatelli, YUAN for Chinese and Lebanese Ayamna. Ossiano serves seafood at tables next to glass walls overlooking the Ambassador Lagoon.

Golfing is not recommended during the months of April to September when the heat can be overwhelming, but the emirate boasts 11 courses within 30 minutes of each other, “one of the most concentrated offerings of world-class golf facilities on the planet.” Among others, choose from the Emirates Golf Course, opened in 1988 as the first all-grass championship course in the Middle East; the Dubai Creek Golf and Yacht Club with its landmark sail-shaped clubhouse; or book public tee times online for the Trump International Golf Club.

For traveling outside the DIFC, Uber and taxis are available, and the Metro includes a Financial District stop, but the most reliable option is to book a car and driver with the hotel maitre-d’. Cab fare to the airport, about 20 minutes from DIFC locations, costs about $10.

Non-Muslims are expected to respect Islamic norms, wearing conservative dress and drinking alcohol legally only in hotels and clubs. The business day can conclude over fruit beverage concoctions or cocktails. The Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton overlooks the Gulf and hotel gardens. English-themed Alfie’s in Jumeirah Emirates Towers is described as “the consummate retreat for men with a taste for finer things.” The Grand Hyatt’s Cooz Bar features cool jazz for those who choose to wind down the day relaxing to the music of Dubai.

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Atlanta: Young at Heart

October 2017United States

Photo: © F11PHOTO | DREAMSTIME

By  – October 1, 2017

ATLANTA IS THE BEST IN THE U.S. … a renowned business climate with an unrivaled quality of living.” City advocates don’t bother to equivocate, and numerous accolades back up their claims: ranked the No. 1 business state in the United States; listed among Lonely Planet’s Top 10 Places to Travel; cited by Travel + Leisure among America’s “most charming,” “friendliest” and “most cultured” cities. Technically a vast region of 8,376 square miles encompassing 29 counties and 242 neighborhoods, metropolitan Atlanta is an alpha world city with a $270 billion gross domestic product and rated eighth in America for its impact on commerce, research finance, technology, media, art and entertainment.

More Fortune 500 companies operate in the city’s business-friendly environment than in Dallas and Nashville combined. Delta Air Lines, Home Depot, ATT, UPS, Marriott and Publix are among the top 10 regional employers. Within the last two years, Honeywell, Adidas, NCR and GE installed major new operations in the area, creating thousands of jobs. One of the fastest-growing hightech urban centers in the nation, Atlanta leads innovation and industry growth, becoming a world-class hub for tech design, implementation and innovation.

Supporting business interaction is the convenient Hartsfield-Jackson Atlanta International Airport, serving 110 million passengers annually and “connecting more people than any other airport in the world,” with 80 percent of the U.S. population within a two-hour flight.

Priding itself on “a collaborative hospitality community that is dedicated to making every meeting a success,” the Atlanta Convention and Visitors Bureau teams with local vendors of the city’s $15 billion hospitality industry to create a seamless experience for 51 million annual visitors to the Georgia World Congress Center. Already the nation’s fourth-largest convention facility, it is currently expanding to equal a million square feet of contiguous meeting space in walkable Downtown among thriving music venues and restaurants.

The Stitch © JACOBS

THE STITCH © JACOBS

While much of America lags, with no long-range plans to tackle decaying infrastructure and decline, Atlanta teems with vivacity and vision. Burned to the ground by Gen. Sherman’s forces, the city emerged from the Civil War aware that cooperation was necessary for recovery, and that legacy remains with Chamber of Commerce official Gregg Simon noting “the state and city work hand in glove with the Chamber and business for the good of the area.”

Jump-started by construction projects to improve parks, sporting venues and transit structure for the 1996 Olympic Games, the city transformed its Atlantic Station section and the defunct Atlantic Steel Mill into vibrant residential and entertainment urban hubs. Subsequent master plans and projects include the $2.8 billion Atlanta BeltLine, reversing bad planning by circling the city with a 22-mile network of parks, trails and transit to connect and spur development in 45 neighborhoods. A pending project, the $300 million “Stitch,” proposes covering a section of the Interstate with concrete decking to override the no-man’s-land of parking lots and traffic lanes which divides Downtown and Midtown, creating 14 new acres for hotels, restaurants and green space.

Fostering development, Chamber of Commerce programs attract new firms, assist young companies and help identify businessto- business collaborations. To expand the workforce, millennials are steered to a dedicated website, ChooseATL, that lists job openings and cultural and network events promising young professionals the opportunity to “find your perfect neighborhood … your dream job, your tribe, and a sense of community unlike any other … a place where careers and culture collide.” While studies indicate the challenges the city presents to those rising from poverty, interns and graduates of the 70 local colleges are cultivated to stay on among the 75,000 new residents added to the 6.5 million population each year.

SCENIC DRIVES

Two nearby excursions take you on jaunts north to the Atlanta Braves’ new SunTrust Stadium and south to the headquarters of Porsche. Whether or not the Braves are playing, the stadium includes a whole complex of shops and cafés and the nearby indoor skydiving wind tunnel of iFLY Atlanta. Near the airport at the sports car firm’s headquarters, the Porsche Driving Experience invites visitors to take a turn behind the wheel.

Farther afield, a drive on the 60-mile-long Alleghany Foothills Parkway skirts the southern edge of the Appalachians, passing the spectacular scenery and wildlife of Chattahoochee National Forest; the Southeast’s tallest cascade, Amicalola Falls; and Georgia’s highest summit, Brasstown Bald.

Almost inevitable — fiddledeedee! — is a tour through the Gone with the Wind Trail. Augmenting the City Library’s extensive collection of memorabilia illuminating the story that won an Academy Award and Pulitzer Prize, a drive takes aficionados to two museums chronicling the thrilling romance of Scarlett O’Hara and Rhett Butler. Marietta’s Gone with the Wind Museum: Scarlett on the Square and Jonesboro’s Road to Tara Museum exhibit costumes, scripts and clippings. The route passes the historic antebellum Stately Oaks Plantation and Kennesaw Mountain National Battlefield Park, where the Confederate Army briefly thwarted Gen. Sherman’s March to the Sea.

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Muscat Balances Tradition and Modernization

DestinationsEditorialJuly 2017MagazineOman

Photo: Al Alam Palace of Sultan Qaboos bin Said © EMANUELE MAZZONI | DREAMSTIME.COM

By  – July 1, 2017

AMID THE CHAOS AND CONFLICT of the Middle East, Muscat, Oman, has been a stable oasis. Surrounded by mountains and desert, jutting into the Gulf of Oman as it narrows into the Strait of Hormuz, the city’s strategic location and maritime tradition have made it an important trading port since early history, when it was a source of copper, gold and treasured frankincense. Described in a 1790 British East India Company report as “one of the most important cities in Asia,” it is recovering from an early-20th-century decline and is said to be undergoing a renaissance.

A hub of local and international activity and the flagship of Oman’s 11 governorates/regions, Muscat is the heart of the country’s political, economic and administrative system. One-third of the 4.5 million Omani people reside within Muscat’s six provinces, or wilayats. Technically encompassing 1,400 square miles, the city includes three primary urban areas. Muscat proper is a small enclave of restored historic homes and buildings. The original harbor, Muttrah, transformed into a waterfront tourist mecca, while the commercial district centered in ancient Ruwi upgraded to accommodate the headquarters of banks and international businesses. These include Toshiba, Seiko, General Motors, Hertz, Chrysler and Mitsubishi as well as other overseas firms conducting business through Suhail Bahwan Group, Bahwan Group and other trading companies.

The Muttrah Souk Al Dhalam © ALEXEY BAGMANYAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

THE MUTTRAH SOUK AL DHALAM © ALEXEY BAGMANYAN | DREAMSTIME.COM

Muscat remains the official residence of the leader responsible for the country’s transformation, Sultan Qaboos bin Said. Under his father’s rule, Oman deteriorated to a political and social backwater with a subsistence economy. Returning after his education in England and India, Qaboos was kept under virtual house arrest until covert British interests aided a bloodless coup July 23, 1970, celebrated annually as Renaissance Day. Young Qaboos took over and immediately set about transforming the country into a modern nation.

Muscat and outlying regions were consolidated into the Sultanate of Oman and the country embarked on Vision 2020, a series of five-year plans intended to modernize the economy, improve the standard of living and establish the country as a global player. Strategies rolled out since 1970 focused on building confidence, enhancing academic and technical skills, increasing productivity and improving the standard of living. Public, private and technical schools train an almost equal number of girls and boys. New clinics and hospitals elevated the population’s health level, and the skills of the health care workforce have been enhanced.

Since 1988 key development focused on “Omanization,” recruitment and training programs to integrate the local population into the workforce. In order to replace expats with Omani personnel, companies are rewarded for increasing their quota levels toward the target goal of 72 percent local personnel.

The country’s mainstay oil and gas revenues supported progress, although reserves are modest compared to those of neighboring states. In the 2016 budget of 8.6 billion Omani rials (about $22 billion), oil and natural gas accounted for more than 6 billion OMR, leaving 2.5 billion from other aggregated sources. Focused on reducing dependence on oil, the current Ninth Five-Year Development Plan specifies five areas for diversification: manufacturing, transport and logistics, tourism, fisheries and mining.

Technological advances are expected to improve production in agriculture and fishing, which currently account for less than 1 percent of the country’s exports. Marble, limestone and gypsum deposits may be viable for mining, and increased production of cement and oil refining equipment is projected to add to exports. Experts estimate the economy will expand by an average 1 to 2 percent in 2016–2017. Achieving diversification will require heavy investment and private funding, and the country encourages foreign investment by liberalizing business opportunities and amending commercial and financial practices to conform to international standards.

Muscat spruced up its historic Portuguese forts to promote tourism, the fastest-growing industry, and diverted commercial shipping from the historic port at Muttrah in order to transform the harbor into an integrated waterfront gateway to Muscat. Urban resort hotels showcase the beaches north and south of the city center. Training courses for tourism guides teach history, geography and foreign languages to encourage professionalism.

All this activity has taken place in the realm of an absolute monarchy. While the 1996 Basic Law established a government structure and the bicameral legislative bodies may offer advice, political parties are not allowed, and all legislation is enacted through royal decrees of “Father of the Renaissance” Sultan Qaboos, who appoints judges and serves as Supreme Commander of the Armed Forces; Chairman of the Central Bank; and Minister of Defense, Foreign Affairs and Finance. All power is concentrated in his inviolable authority, and all Omanis are subject to his will.

During the Arab Spring, demonstrators held rallies calling for higher minimum wages and political reform, but the protestors were disciplined and some carried signs supporting the Sultan. A degree of unrest remains, and there is an expectation that dissent may increase. Also troubling is the question of succession. As he nears age 80 in declining health, with no heir or designated successor, who will succeed Sultan Qaboos remains unknown. The risk of a contested succession is destabilizing to an economy which, although subdued, is stable and steady. The key challenges of managing volatile oil prices, accelerating diversification and job creation, and balancing geopolitical tensions in the region could saddle the successor with a tough task to ensure future prosperity.

Aerial view of Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa © SHANGRI-LA BARR AL JISSAH RESORT & SPA

AERIAL VIEW OF SHANGRI-LA BARR AL JISSAH RESORT AND SPA © SHANGRI-LA BARR AL JISSAH RESORT & SPA

CHECKING IN WITH JUREGEN DOERR

General Manager, Shangri-La Barr Al Jissah Resort and Spa

How does Muscat compare to other overseas locations?
Dubai, Singapore and Hong Kong are like any international cities. There’s no sense of belonging; you could be anywhere. Muscat is still traditional and keeps the strict local culture. Omanis are friendly people, open to Westerners. They are formal at first, but they really embrace you.

What is the business climate?
It is developing, but not as fast as Abu Dhabi or Dubai, so you don’t have to rely on a foreign workforce. Here businesses develop slower so they can iron out the social issues, and there are fewer problems. The pace is slightly different. Things are not decided on the spot the way we are used to. You have to be patient and try to understand the Omanis’ way of thinking and be mindful of showing respect.

How do you handle the government quota of Omanization of the local workers?
We recruit from all over Oman, from the small cities, to get more people into the organization. Recruitment is easy; retaining is more difficult. If you come from the country, discipline is a bit lacking, the understanding of timeliness and consistency. This is a learning process in which we struggle a bit. We hire for attitude and train the skills. Our directors of engineering, human resources and front office are Omani.

Statistics show almost an equal number of men and women students and workers. What is the attitude toward women?
Women are respected among the local population. We have women working in the recreation area, staffing the health and kids’ clubs and working in guest relations.

How would you characterize day-to-day life, and is it safe?
The city is developed but isn’t overwhelming. Zoning keeps the high-rises modest, and the quality of the infrastructure is good. It’s a safe place without issues. There is hardly any traffic; my wife drives all around in the car.

Why do you find it such a pleasant place to live?
The people make it really pleasant, and the landscape is amazing. They say it’s the “Switzerland of the Middle East.” It has everything to offer — mountains, ocean, beaches, outdoor activities. My sons and I do a lot of sports: cycling, swimming, hiking and horseback riding. For the outdoors, it’s fantastic.

Things to Do in Muscat

Local people in traditional dress along the Muttrah Corniche © LUCA ROGGERO | DREAMSTIME.COM

LOCAL PEOPLE IN TRADITIONAL DRESS ALONG THE MUTTRAH CORNICHE © LUCA ROGGERO | DREAMSTIME.COM

Muscat’s waterfront location offers urban resorts with swimming, scuba, fishing and other water activities in luxurious surroundings. The historic harbor has been converted into a portside park for private yachts, cruise ships, fishing expeditions and tours. A good time to visit is early morning as fishermen arrive to count and sell their catches of yellowfin tuna, grouper and kingfish. Nearby, Muttrah Souk, one of the oldest markets in the Arab world, remains the place to bargain for garments, clothes, jewels, dates, antique daggers, hookahs and frankincense.

From the harbor, the paved Corniche follows the grassy shore for three miles past statues and monuments, a Portuguese watchtower and leafy Al-Riyam and Kalbuh Bay parks. After passing through ancient city gates, the road arrives at the enclave of Old Muscat, location of the royal palace enclosure and several museums.

Three modern must-see sites are pet projects of Sultan Qaboos. Dedicated in 2001 and open during morning hours, the sandstone Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque can accommodate up to 20,000 worshipers. A classical music fan, the sultan sponsored the ultra-elaborate Royal Opera House complex, a cultural center including landscaped gardens, galleries, retail shops and restaurants. South along the coast, the magnificent Al Bustan Palace is said to be one of the world’s finest hotels.

Muscat Info to Go

Oman’s main airport, Muscat International Airport, formerly called Seeb, completes the early stages of a threephase enlargement which will ultimately increase airport capacity to 48 million annual passengers. Located within the metropolitan area, 20 miles south of the old city, it serves as the hub for the country’s flagship Oman Air. Public buses into town stop just outside the airport entrance. A better choice is hotel shuttles or the blue and white metered airport taxis which charge around 20 OMR (about $52) into the business district. The airport website provides detailed schedules.

COMING AND GOING
U.S. citizens must have a passport valid for at least six months as well as a visa. For 20 OMR (about $52), U.S. citizens can obtain single-entry visas online ahead of time or on arrival at the airport. Good for 30 days, visas can be extended for a fee.

OFFICIAL LANGUAGE
Arabic, with Hindi and Urdu common among the sizeable Indian population. Almost everyone speaks at least a touch of English.

Muscat: Just the Facts

Time zone: GMT +4
Phone code: Country/city code: 968
Currency: Omani rial
Key industries: Oil, manufacturing, transportation, tourism, fisheries

Where to Stay in Muscat

AL BUSTAN PALACE HOTEL A favorite project of Sultan Qaboos, this marble wonder has been voted one of the world’s finest hotels. Al Bustan Street, Quron Beach $$$$

INTERCONTINENTAL MUSCAT Indulge in the deluxe amenities at this 5-star beachside hotel, popular with expats and near the expansive Opera House, just 15 minutes from the airport. Al Kharjiya Street, Al Shati Area, Muttrah $$$

MARINA HOTEL Enjoy the local atmosphere in this modern, seaside, 3-star hotel a short walk from the fish market and souk, with terrace views essential for sunset cocktails. Jibroo, Muttrah $$

Restaurants in Muscat

CARAMEL MUSCAT The two-course business lunch at this Dubai-based restaurant and lounge provides the opportunity to visit the Opera House complex. Opera Galleria, The Royal Opera House $$$

TOKYO TARO Overlooking city views from the eighth floor of the Al Falaj Hotel, Muscat’s leading Japanese restaurant serves authentic cuisine at both a tepanyaki counter and in a private traditional dining room. Al Falaj Hotel, 1692 Al Hamriya, Ruwi $$$

TUSCANY Amazing wood-fired pizzas are served for quiet one-on-one-meetings. A private room can be booked for larger groups. Grand Hyatt Muscat, Shatti Al Qurum $$$

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Milton Park Country House Hotel & Spa

Story and photography by Sharon King Hoge

Milton Park Country House Hotel was a stately home

Arched Palladian windows… stately stone urns… dappled pathways… are signature features of Milton Park an historic resort in the manicured rolling landscape of the Southern Highlands an hour south of Sydney, Australia.  Originally called Mansfield Farm, it was purchased in 1910 to be the country home of one of the very social Hordern brothers, and became known for breeding top cattle and for its magnificent gardens designed by Anthony Hordern and has wives Viola and Mary.

Driving in through imposing stone gates down a tree-lined driveway, the iconic mansion, said to be a 20th-century icon, is entered through the door at the porte-cochere.  Its living rooms now provide comfortable reception and seating areas for reading and chatting and sipping tea in the manner of the Golden Era when wealthy estate owners fled here to escape Sydney’s summer heat. Beyond the check-in desk, the Polo Bar is lined with a wall of iridescent liquor bottles with a billiard room behind.  Windows in the Conservancy, Orangerie, and Hordern dining rooms frame views of the trees, greenery, and colorful birds outside. Continue reading

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