Chicago’s Commerce, Culture and Community

DestinationsEditorialJune 2017MagazineUnited States

Photo: © F11PHOTO | DREAMSTIME.COM

By  – June 1, 2017

IT’S “THE BEST OF TIMES, THE WORST OF TIMES” in Chicago, a microcosm Tale of Two Cities, with outlying neighborhoods plagued by crime while the urban core prospers. Of 500 highly publicized gunfire incidents recorded in the first two months of this year, 100 of them homicides, a map shows the crimes were restricted to districts wrapped around the inner city, where not a single shooting took place. Despite a loss of revenue from the bankrupt State of Illinois floundering to work out a budget, outside the beleaguered area development manages to thrive. Home to more than two dozen Fortune 500 companies in manufacturing, insurance, food processing, printing and publishing, Chicago rates among the world’s 20 largest economies.

Aqua Building

AQUA BUILDING © JIM ROBERTS | DREAMSTIME.COM

The heart of the city, one of the world’s most important Central Business Districts, the Loop embraces business and government office towers, a theater district and a wealth of cultural institutions: the Lyric Opera, Chicago Symphony and Joffrey Ballet. The former Marshall Field’s department store is being repurposed, and the iconic Palmer House Hotel has been fully renovated. Extensive railroad yards that once overran the lakefront have revitalized into a green urban park with an amphitheater designed by Frank Gehry; Jeanne Gang’s award-winning Aqua mixed-use residential office tower; and Anish Kapoor’s silver Cloud Gate sculpture, nicknamed The Bean, with a shiny surface that reflects the surrounding urban activity.

Property values are soaring in the West Loop, a gritty industrial area of wholesale markets, meat packers, food distributors and warehouses rapidly transforming into a lively area of hotels, offices and apartments. McDonald’s is relocating its headquarters from Oak Brook to a super-sized office building on the former site of Oprah’s Harpo Studios in the Fulton Market District, and Caterpillar announced plans to move its global operation to town from Peoria. Farther west in Garfield, Leslie Hindman Auctioneers is converting a 30,000-square-foot warehouse into a consignment business to sell furniture and decorative art online. Nearby, an 80,000-square-foot entrepreneur incubator, The Hatchery, will provide space to foster 75–100 food service startups which reinforce the city’s active restaurant scene.

Another incubator, 1871, acquired space to nurture tech startups among the longstanding showrooms for interior design, furniture and apparel in the mammoth 4.2-million-square-foot Merchandise Mart. Named for the year of the Chicago fire, which led to an innovative rebuilding of the city, 1871 provides an affordable downtown place for tech startups “to share ideas, make mistakes, work hard and build up businesses intended to change the world.”

Massive expansion of O’Hare International Airport with flights to more than 150 domestic destinations, a Midway Airport upgrade and reconstruction of the Dan Ryan Expressway all enhanced the city’s accessibility. Located in the middle of the country with both U.S. coasts and Washington, D.C., easy daytrips away, the city offers a convenient out-of-town commute for lawyers, consultants and bankers.

Murals on a building in Pilsen

MURALS ON A BUILDING IN PILSEN © STEFANIA ROSSITTO | DREAMSTIME.COM

Gentrification progresses in neighborhoods contiguous to the central city without sacrificing ethnic and historic character. Latino Pilsen maintains its colorful murals, Humboldt Park remains rich in Puerto Rican heritage, and landscaped boulevard medians make up the “emerald necklace” embracing Logan Square. Farther afield, the Barack Obama Presidential Library is expected to boost revitalization of Jackson Park.

A wealth of outdoor fitness options, many linked to the shores of convenient Lake Michigan, balance the city’s gourmet bounty. Within walking distance of office towers discover wide, sandy beaches where swimmers can also rent canoes, kayaks and paddle boards. Cyclists and joggers enjoy several designated paths, notably the Lakefront Trail, stretching 18 miles past museums, harbors, monuments, beaches and high-rises. Those undaunted by the notorious winters can ice skate outdoors at several city rinks. Local concessions offer snowshoeing, cross-country skiing and curling; and right downtown (and lit at night) sits the 220-foot slope of the Soldier Field Sledding Hill. Less strenuous therapies await at distinguished downtown day spas such as Charles Joseph Salon and Spa, the Red Door and Mario Tricoci.

With North America’s largest convention center, McCormick Place, and facilities at Navy Pier, the city is a leader in group tourism. A consolidation of tourist and conference agencies into the official sales and marketing promoter Choose Chicago bolstered tourism, and the 2016 tally was already within a million of Mayor Rahm Emanuel’s goal to reach 55 million visitors by 2020. Chicago frequently ranks as a top city to visit, a fitting tribute to America’s nicknamed Second City.

SCENIC DRIVES

Outlying areas offer worthwhile daytrip destinations. An hour and a half north in southeast Wisconsin, Lake Geneva was the popular summer retreat of Chicago’s wealthy barons. Their Gilded Age mansions line Shore Path, and the Grand Geneva Resort & Spa was the site of Hugh Hefner’s original Playboy Club.

Heading south to Peoria, the 150-mile drive passes the Midewin National Tallgrass Prairie in Kankakee, 1,200 acres of restored meadow grassland inhabited by a herd of bison. Capponi’s and Mona’s restaurants in Toluca make popular stops for tortellini or signature fettuccini. In Peoria sample whiskey at J.K. Williams Distilling or 175 whiskeys on hand at the Hearth Restaurant, serving wood-grilled steaks and chops.

A fitting destination for this 150th anniversary year of Frank Lloyd Wright is a visit to the architect’s studio and the world’s largest collection of his designs in Oak Park. The Chicago suburb, a half hour west of downtown, claims 21 Wright-designed structures which can be toured by foot, car or a special two-hour pedal tour.

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The Hamptons: At Leisure

May 2017United States

Photo: © JORG HACKEMANN | DREAMSTIME.COM

By  – May 1, 2017

NEW YORK STATE’S SEE-AND-BE-SEEN summer getaway of celebrities from Martha Stewart and Stephen Spielberg to Madonna and Jimmy Fallon, the Hamptons makes a tempting stopover. Stretching east from Manhattan, Long Islandends in upper and lower prongs offering beaches, vistas and vineyards. But it is the South Fork most people mean when they refer to “the Hamptons.” Spanning about 30 miles, it encompasses a half dozen seaside communities — oldmoneyed and gentrified Southampton; Sag Harbor, the hub of actors and writers; East Hampton with its glittery show business scene; more restrained Water Mill; Bridgehampton; and Amagansett. There’s also Sagaponack, which rates as the most expensive zip code in America, and laid-back Montauk, at the far end, a haven for bohemians, fishermen and surfers.

It’s summertime when you’re most apt to encounter Alec Baldwin or Sarah Jessica Parker buying newspapers at CandyKitchen, window shopping at Ralph Lauren, stocking up on crispy mustard-roasted chicken at the Barefoot Contessa or waiting in line for lattes at Starbucks. But Memorial Day to Labor Day the whole region also suffers frequent gridlock with bumper-to-bumper traffic on vital Route 27. The Hamptons in winter is a whole different matter. While you’re less apt to encounter famous faces and some of the attractions close down, in off-season visitors can truly relax, bask in the scenery and score restaurant reservations and discounted hotel rooms. All year-round there’s plenty to do.

East Hampton shopping district

EAST HAMPTON SHOPPING DISTRICT © JAMES KIRKIKIS | DREAMSTIME.COM

The No. 1 attraction is the region’s glorious beaches for basking, jogging, strolling, paddle boarding and picnicking. While the daily parking permit fee is $40 at Southampton’s Coopers Beach (and an extra $25 for chair and umbrella), there’s no charge for just walking onto glorious stretches of sand like East Hampton’s Main Beach or Montauk’s marvelous dunes, and some hotels provide dropoff service. Bicycles are another option; most villages have rental shops for pedaling to the nearby stretches of sand where you can easily stash cycles.

Golfing offers another way to take in the scenery. Montauk DownsSag Harbor Golf and Poxabogue in Bridgehampton are public courses with spectacular settings. Around a dozen facilities rent tennis courts, even in winter at East Hampton Indoor Tennis. Fitness centers like Soul Cycle and Pilates studios offer spin, exercise and yoga classes year-round. When it’s cold, enjoy pick-up hockey games, skating and ice boating on Mecox Bay.

In a locale with so many illustrious residents, culture lies at the forefront. Authors Jay McInerney and Tom Wolfe may promote their books in library readings or join more than two dozen writers signing their works at East Hampton Library’s annual outdoor Authors Night benefit. Jennifer Lopez, Gwyneth Paltrow, Emily Mortimer, Alessandro Nivola and other actors and directors may host screenings of their movies, and the Hamptons Film Festival takes over local theaters each October. Sag Harbor’s Bay Street Theater hosts Broadway shows and comedy nights.

Fueled by the legacy of former artist-residents Jackson Pollock, Willem de Kooning and Lee Krasner and now augmented by modern painters Eric Fischl, Donald Sultan and April Gornik, the East End provides rich opportunities for art lovers. Local galleries and tents set up for art fairs in July offer revolving exhibits. The rambling Herzog & de Meurondesigned Parrish Art Museum and the stately Southampton Arts Center show exhibits all year. On weekends, Dan Flavin’s fluorescent light creations are displayed in the Art Institute established in a former firehouse.

Founded in the 1640s, the villages tout their histories. The colonial Thomas Halsey Homestead, the 17th-century Pelletreau Silver Shop and the Rogers Mansion list among historic structures comprising the Southampton Historical Museum, which sponsors play readings, lectures and classes. Of its half dozen historic buildings, East Hampton’s 1720 Osborn- Jackson House remains open year-round, and the Society runs a winter lecture series. Sag Harbor’s Whaling & Historical Museum houses the state’s largest collection of whaling equipment, and the stately building fronted by Corinthian columns has been declared a National Treasure. Standing 110 feet tall, the Montauk Lighthouse displays the actual document George Washington signed authorizing its construction.

Cedar Point Lighthouse in East Hampton

CEDAR POINT LIGHTHOUSE IN EAST HAMPTON © SYLVANA REGA | DREAMSTIME.COM

Before its transformation into a resort, the South Fork was agricultural. Most of its onceextensive potato farms have been lost to development, but you’ll still find farmers raising corn, squash, zucchini, sun-ripened tomatoes, flowers and autumn pumpkins — all of which provide traffic-stopping glories of roadside farmers markets. From February through May produce is sold at the enclosed Fair Foods Farmers Market in Sag Harbor.

One enduring local crop is grapes. Notable wineries feature year-round tastings and tours to show off vintages of Merlot, Cabernet, Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. Reflecting its German heritage, the Wölffer Estate in Sagaponack entertains visitors on a stone terrace or under the high-beamed ceiling within its recently renovated tasting room while local jazz musicians entertain guests nibbling at cheese and charcuterie and sipping reds and whites. Channing Daughters Winery offers artisanal wines from hand-picked grapes which are gently cluster-pressed or footstomped and gravity bottled. Open daily yearround, Channing welcomes drop-ins 11 a.m.–5 p.m. for informative tastings of six different wines each day.

Wölffer Estate’s new tasting room in Sagaponack

WÖLFFER ESTATE’S NEW TASTING ROOM IN SAGAPONACK © BRIDGET ELKIN

Spa seekers can try Gurney’s in Montauk, where a Roman bath, Finnish rock sauna, Russian steam room, Swiss shower and a unique ocean-fed saltwater pool augment healing treatments. Gurney’s also rents oceanfront rooms and, like most accommodations in the region, offers more or less half-price off-season rates and packages. Those who come to shop find Ralph Lauren, Calypso, Madewell and other familiar brands in East Hampton, while the Main Street of every village is lined with charming shops and quirky boutiques.

The Hamptons Info to Go

While the stars fly out by helicopter, most visitors avoid the rural East Hampton Airport. Off season, the 100-mile drive takes an easy two hours from Manhattan, but that can more than double in the throes of summer traffic. The Montauk Branch of the Long Island Railroad schedules two to five trips per day to and from Penn Station. The preferred option is the ultra-efficient coach service of the Hampton Jitney and Luxury Liner that offer WiFi and snacks on board. Their frequency is almost hourly in summer, with pick-up and drop-off at East- and Westside Manhattan locations, plus an airport connection.

Where to Stay in The Hamptons

THE AMERICAN HOTEL Eight shabby-chic double rooms are in demand at Sag Harbor’s vintage 1846 hotel, revamped in the 1970s with sitting rooms, Frette linens and oversized bathrooms, steps away from the popular hangout bar downstairs. 45 Main St., Sag Harbor $$$ ($$$$$ in summer)

MAIDSTONE ARMS Snuggle into “Scandinavian- cozy” European flair in 19 rooms and cottages with Covuchi robes, aromatherapy burners, Malin+Goetz bath products and a hearty buffet served on the ground floor. 207 Main St., East Hampton $$$$ ($$$$$ in summer)

SOUTHAMPTON INN This grand dame hotel offers almost 100 rooms decorated in traditional style with an outdoor pool, tennis court, game room and gym. 91 Hill St., Southampton $$$ ($$$$ in summer)

Restaurants in The Hamptons

NICK AND TONI’S Summer reservations are at a premium at this celebrity favorite where lucky diners enjoying wood-roasted whole fish or crispy duck leg could be seated near Brad Pitt and Jack Nicolson. 136 N. Main St., East Hampton$$$$

PIERRE’S Bouillabaisse, blanquette de veau and other traditional French fare round out the seafood-focused menu, dish of the day and fixed-price menu at this chic and casual café with outdoor summer seating. 2468 Main St., Bridgehampton $$$

TOPPING ROSE HOUSE Enjoy sensible, locally sourced versions of renowned chef Jean- Georges Vongerichten’s sophisticated French cuisine in the elegant, historic dining room. 1 Bridgehampton- Sag Harbor Turnpike, Bridgehampton $$$$

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From FLO to Toe

Thursday, May 4, 2017


Conservancy guests arriving for the annual Hat Luncheon
may be focused on their elegant, elaborate, inventive toppers but as they’re escorted down the stately stone staircase, the shoes they’re wearing also command attention. From glittery sandals to knee high boots, from teeter-y heels to good solid sneakers, footwear fashion statements vary from comfortable to au courante. Here’s a sampling of shoes spotted on and around the steps. by Sharon Hoge

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Suzhou, China

Once clients have visited China’s top three cities, Shanghai/Beijing/Xi’an, there are great opportunities to steer them to the country’s myriad outlying destinations, and Suzhou is a good place to start. Sixty miles from Shanghai, conveniently accessible by bus and high speed train, the city’s gardens, canals, crafts, and culture satisfy a range of travel tastes. Read more

World Browser March-April 2017

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Heading Straight Up Down Under

A Bus Trip Along Australia’s Stuart Hiway

Two weeks after crossing Russia from Moscow to Vladivostok, I transversed Australia by bus, slicing the continent up the middle, south to north, from Adelaide to Darwin on the Stuart Highway, named for the intrepid explorer who first charted the route in 1862.  I wanted to see Ayres Rock/Uluru, the flat sacred mountain/hill in the middle of the continent, and a jumping off point is Alice Springs, midway along the 1500 mile passage.

The Stuart Hiway stretches north from AdelaideThe Stuart Hiway stretches north from Adelaide

The passing landscapeThe passing landscape

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Crossing Siberia by Train

Story and photos by Sharon King Hoge

Siberia may be notorious for hard labor in harsh winters, but traversing Russia by train is a pleasant fascinating trip.   The passing landscape outside may be swampy and mosquito infested in summer or bleak and frozen in winter, but viewed from on board, the scenery is dotted with villages of wooden houses, endless birch trees, and occasional stops at pastel depots.  Passengers are friendly despite language restrictions, and the efficient staff keeps the cars spotless with daily scrubbing and vacuuming.  A full seven days and six nights after leaving Moscow on the famous Rossiya train, I landed in Vladivostok almost 6000 miles away departing my comfortable cabin with regret.

Siberianlandscapefromthewindowofthetrain

Siberian landscape from the window of the train

Various local trains cover the distance, but the principle long-haul train offers two optional routes.  Last year I followed the southern path, Moscow to Beijing, interchanging with local trains so I could get on and off to explore Ekaterinberg,  Irkutz, and Lake Baikal, disembarking early in Mongolia.  The landscape had been green and forested in summer, and I was curious to see legendary frozen Siberia, so this March I chose the classic route, the Rossiya #2 which departs Moscow heading east for a week until it reaches Vladivostok.  (The west-bound return trip, the #1, leaves Vladivostok on even numbered days).  There is a luxury train that runs the route offeringcomfort, convenience, coddling, and stops along the way but it takes twice as long and costs multiples more than the $900 I paid for a first class ticket. Continue reading

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Carrier and Company

Designer Interview Q&A’s

The Timeless work of Carrier and Company runs the gamut from Tribeca lofts and Florida vacation homes to notable fashion offices. Married founders Jesse Carrier and Mara Miller collaborate as parents and as principals of the firm, and have been named to both the AD100 and Elle Decor’s a-list.

Download the complete article from Cottages and Gardens April 2017

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Economic Optimism in San Diego

March 2017United States

Photo: Stone Brewing main dining room and bar © STONE BREWING

By  – March 1, 2017

WITH GLORIOUS BEACHES, reliably mild weather and world-class attractions, San Diego is often called America’s Finest City. The country’s 17th-largest metropolitan area is also a business hub, and no matter whom you ask, the answer is always the same: The local economy’s top three sectors are innovation, tourism and the military. New developments are reinvigorating all three.

With visitors bringing $10 billion a year into the local economy, tourism remains the city’s second-biggest factor. The renowned San Diego Zoo, Sea World, the USS Midway Museum — along with the seashores and golf courses — continue to attract thousands of domestic and international visitors each year, principally from China, Mexico, Canada and the United Kingdom. Recently built underground parking garages that expand parks and open space further enhance the urban atmosphere.

Zookeeper feeding cheetahs at the San Diego Zoo

ZOOKEEPER FEEDING CHEETAHS AT THE SAN DIEGO ZOO © WOLLERTZ | DREAMSTIME.COM

Brewery bus tours represent an emerging draw. Generating $851 million in sales last year and employing 4,500 workers, craft beers are booming, with 114 homegrown breweries organizing trips and tasting events. Stone Brewing, the largest, invites guests to its restaurant and tap room and is currently building a beer-themed hotel next to its major plant. This will join other new hotels now under construction downtown after a post-recession lag.

Perennially ranked among the country’s top five destinations for meetings and events, the San Diego Convention Center brings an annual $1 billion into the regional economy. With the immensely popular annual Comic-Con convention straining its facilities, the tourist bureau, hotel and restaurant association, city and port authority are reviewing potential plans for expansion. Earlier this year, the city shelved the potential construction of a new downtown stadium when the San Diego Chargers football team made the decision to relocate to Los Angeles.

The military sector runs a close second to tourism. Home port of the Pacific Fleet and one of the country’s largest naval bases, San Diego supplies support services from housing and food to medical care and counseling. With military forces shrinking in numbers amid a shift to tactical strategizing, the city is seizing on new technological opportunities to attract more government investment to the city.

And military advances are only one aspect of the blossoming business innovation in biotech, medicine, life science, engineering, energy, clean green, solar and HVAC — startup businesses which expanded exponentially during the past 15 years. In contrast to Stanford, which attracts major Silicon Valley angel investors, San Diego boasts a network of community-based centers providing guidance and mentorship to grassroots innovators. Stoked by the preponderance of military veterans and the University of California at La Jolla, which attracts many Asian students, the region is ripe with ideas that transform into viable businesses.

Industry is sustained by a cross-border labor force that enables engineering and manufacturing resources south of the border in Baja to buttress the innovative activity up north. To facilitate that exchange, the city approaches the locale not as two nations but as one Cali-Baja region and is making efforts to build bridges and ports of entry.

Fortifying development, a city charter passed last year dedicates a specific percentage of revenue to infrastructure, targeting improved roads, increased water and sewer capacity, and water recycling. A seawater desalination plant recently came online to ensure access to the fresh water crucial not only to the population but also to manufacturing and biotech.

Rebounding after the recession, prices are back up, in some cases to record highs. Neighborhoods are hitting their stride, particularly in the downtown area. The same attributes that attract tourists also appeal to residents who appreciate the easy access to hiking, bicycling, swimming and climbing. That outdoor culture draws free thinkers who also make great employees, luring companies to relocate here. “It’s a beautiful, innovative, creative city,” a Chamber of Commerce spokesperson explains, “a place where you’d like to live and work.”

SCENIC DRIVES

While beer commands the city proper, nearby wineries offer attractive daytrips. Drive north on Route 15 past citrus groves and vine-covered hillsides through Escondido to Temecula, where antique shops and wine-tasting bars await behind the Western frontier façades of Old Town. A half dozen local, family-owned wineries lie east of town along Rancho California Road. Sample a full line of varietals and vintages at Bel Vino. Trendy Miramonte is apt to offer live entertainment for those sipping wines it calls “adventurous and succulent.” Along with its award-winning wines, Callaway Winery’s Meritage Restaurant offers farm-to-table meals and panoramic views. Thornton Winery is designed like a French château, and early California-style Mount Palomar Winery overlooks the valley.

South of the border explore Valle de Guadalupe, an emerging region of up-market wines and dining. Locals recommend taking the Tecate border crossing to a ride through rolling hills on Mexico Highway 3. L.A. Cetto is one of the largest producers; Paralelo boasts a fruity Sauvignon Blanc; and 20-year-old, family-run Casa de Piedra produces some of Mexico’s finest wines.

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John P. Franzen

Designer Interviews Q&A’s

A SPECIALIST IN PRESERVATION, planning and new construction, John P. Franzen, FAIA, is a former member of the Fairfield Historic District Commission and is involved in many regional and community boards and design juries. His firm, J.P. Franzen Associates, operates out of offices in Southport’s historic Tide Mill Building and in downtown Fairfield.

Download the complete article from Cottages and Gardens March 2017

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Northwest Arkansas

Story and photos by Sharon King Hoge

c21 art filled lobby

Northwest Arkansas certainly wasn’t on my bucket list.  I did want to see the acclaimed new Crystal Bridges Museum established by Walmart heiress Alice Walton in the company’s hometown Bentonville.  But I postponed a visit, kind of dreading the trip to wherever-it-was. Imagine my pleasure when instead of “nowhere” I found a region wealthy in entertainment and fun. Continue reading

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Erica Moses

Designer Interview Q&A’s

It’s no wonder nest studio pillows feature vibrant colors: their creator, Erica Moses, is a native of Brazil. After moving to Connecticut to marry an American, she owned two successful local retail stores (Benetton and new Frontier), re-created herself as an elementary-school teacher, and then launched nest while raising three children.

Download the complete article from Cottages and Gardens February 2017

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American Friends of Versailles’ Visit to Sicily

Friday, January 6, 2017
Paint flaking from the ceiling of the Queen’s Guards Room in Versailles.
by Sharon Hoge
Photographs by Faith Coolidge & Sharon King Hoge
A new year’s resolution of the American Friends of Versailles is to raise funds necessary to complete restoration of the flaking ceiling of the Guards Room in Marie Antoinette’s apartment suite in the chateau. To that end they are planning two exclusive events in 2017, a tour of Portugal in September and a gala November weekend in Sarasota, Florida. Those excursions will be patterned on prior balls and tours, such as this past year’s a trip through Sicily in September arranged by Princess Beatrice de Bourbon des Deux Siciles, a direct descendant of Marie Antoinette’s sister Maria Caroline and great grandaughter of Sicily’s last king. The sister of Charles, Duke of Castro, the current head of the royal house, she is warmly received throughout the country by noble families and officials who graciously opened their historic palazzos, villas, and monuments to the group.
Trinacria is the historic name of the island often represented as a triangle with legs designating its three historic harbors: Messina, Siracuse, and Palermo Princess Beatrice presented welcome gifts: a Sicilian cookbook, the island’s fabled marzipan, Zagara di Siccilia cologne, and a Michelin Guide inscribed “Benvenuti in Sicilia”
Just over two dozen of us traveled from Chicago, Texas, Florida, New York, Washington D.C., and France to meet up in Palermo at the historic Grande Hotel et Des Palmes, the monumental lodging where Wagner is said to have completed “Parsifal.” Walking to Ristorante A’ Cuccagna we were introduced to Sicilian cuisine featuring eggplant dishes, pasta, and craft cheeses brilliantly and deliciously executed by the restaurant maestros Sammarco. While musicians strummed we were welcomed by American Friends of Versailles Founder and President Catharine Hamilton and Princess Beatrice, who summarized the excursions we had in store.
The American Friends of Versailles gathered in Palermo’s 5-star Grand Hotel et Des Palmes to begin their journey.
Clockwise from top left: Adjourning to an en plein air dinner at Ristorante A’Cuccagna, the AFV group was welcomed by Princess Beatrice; Ristorante A’Cuccagna’s renowned chefs served a buffet of Sicilian specialties; Strolling musicians serenaded during dinner.
Princess Beatrice introduced Marquise Anna, who welcomed the group.

Highlights of the week were visits to private homes where noble families, honored to host the princess, welcomed us as guests.

We had the chance to view their collections and belongings and enjoyed seated meals served in a variety of historic homes. While shown around the residences, we were allowed to take pictures but many of the hosts asked us not to post or publish them.

Cautioning that the march of history threatens many of these villas and the lifestyle they embody we were grateful for the opportunity to experience the gracious hospitality and legacy they represent.

Marquise Anna Monroy di Giamipileri Paterno di Spedalotto presented a luncheon at her family’s “country house,” neo-classical Villa Spedalotto perched high over a spectacular view of the sea at Bagheria, the aristocracy’s favorite 18th-century resort.

The country villa of Marquise Anna di Giamipileri Paterno di Spedalotto is set amidst olive groves in the village of Bagheria outside Palermo.
New Yorker Vincent Viola greeted the Marquise.
The terrace provided spectacular views out to sea and the neighboring village of Bagheria.
Susan and Harlow Higinbotham admired the terrace’s views out to the Tyrrhenian Sea.
Texas banker Richard Ware scanned the view from the terrace. Jerome Fouan.
Fanciful planters embellish the terrace railing.
Luncheon was served in the formal dining room.
A trompe l’oeil pooch guards the door.
Later we were hosted by her attractive son Vincenzo Paterno di Spedalotto who has returned from Europe with his bride to Domus Olivae to farm olives and produce Tondo degli Oliveti di Mortilla, an exclusive olive oil from a variety of olives which thrive only in a very small, exclusive part of this Chiaramonte region; merely a few kilometers beyond Domus Olivae the special olives won’t grow.
Vincenzo Spedalotto welcomed us as his first guests to be entertained at his newly renovated villa.
Vincenzo and his Moldavian wife only recently returned from Europe to reside in Sicily.
The young couple has recently restored Domus Olivae.
Local cheeses and olives set the scene for lunch at Domus Olivae. Sicilian dishes in the luncheon buffet.
Bonnie Deutsch near the infinity pool. New Yorkers Vincent and Theresa Viola.
Princess Beatrice, the Spedalottos, and John Viola with the Domus Olivae’s special Tondo olive oil.
In Palazzo Beneventano del Bosco, one of the country’s most beautiful palaces facing the main square in Syracuse’s ancient settlement Ortygia, Baron Beneventano told us how pleased he was to have as a guest Princess Beatrice whose ancestors had often sought refuge in the Palazzo which is built into the city fortifications, its paved inner court one of the only surviving lava and river stone courtyards in the Baroque style. The family’s legacy of wine production stems from the early 18th-century, and after sampling their latest vintages, we moved along to luncheon served at one long table decorated with pink-edged white lisianthi blossoms which the Baroness had arranged.
Baron Beneventano welcomes David Hamilton.
Palazzo Beneventano’s imposing arches have welcomed Lord Nelson and King Ferdinand III.
Balconies of Palazzo Beneventano overlook Ortygia’s main plaza.
David Hamilton and former AFV President Baron Roland de l’Espee admire the view.
AFV Executive Director Kristen Smith. Garden expert Didier Wirth joined the group for part of the trip.
New Yorker Suzanne McDonough.
Generations of family photos on the piano in Palazzo Beneventano.
L. to r.: Luncheon was served at one long table; A bottle of Beneventano wine; Floral centerpieces were selected by the Baroness.
AFV Founder and President Catharine Hamilton presents a Versailles medallion to the Baron and Baroness. Inset: Versailles medallions were presented to our hosts in appreciation.
At Palazzo Arezzo di Trifiletti with its windows framing dramatic views across the Piazza to Ragusa’s imposing Baroque Duomo which is dedicated to St. George, we sipped cocktails and sampled local cheeses. As we entered, we passed, a century-old photo taken from the balcony showing one of the Barone di Trifiletti’s ancestors, aged 10, at the front of the crowd in the annual procession honoring the saint.
A sightseeing train took us through Ragusa.
Ragusa’s imposing Baroque Duomo is dedicated to St. George.
An unimposing doorway leads to Palazzo Arezzo di Trifiletti. Ribbons decorated the Trifiletti Palazzo for a family wedding.
Princess Beatrice with Barone Arezzo di Trifiletti, his wife, and son.
Triviletti windows overlook the Duomo.
View of the Duomo from a Trifiletti balcony. A century-old photo shows the procession seen from the balcony.
Sampling local cheeses at the cocktail reception.
Departing Palazzo Arezo di Trifiletti: Dr. Susan Kendall, Michele Fouan, Pricess Beatrice, Faith Coolidge, and Sharon Hoge. Behind: Jerome Fouan and Philip Hartung.
Princess Carine Vanni Calvello Mantegna di Gangi guided us through her family’s loving and painstaking restoration of Palazzo Gangi with its magnificent double-ceiling hall of mirrors and the ballroom where Burt Lancaster and Claudia Cardinale danced in the film “The Leopard.” The local pastries oozing cream served at a reception in that ballroom were every bit — every bite — as memorable as scenes from the film which we screened one day during a transfer on our bus.
AFV President and Founder Catharine Hamilton. Princess Carine has spent over a decade restoring Palazzo Gangi.
John Parkerson on the terrace adjoining the Leopard ballroom.
Reception in Gangi’s Leopard ballroom.
Palermo’s very colorful Mayor Leoluca Orlando — a German film star, former member of the EU parliament, president of the Italian Federation of American Football, once a Nobel Prize short-list candidate for his anti-Mafia efforts — served luncheon and showed us around Villa Niscemi which he purchased 30 year ago for official city functions. Previously a family home of the Verdura family, it includes a small red bedroom, where he told us, the great jeweler Fulco Verdura was born.
Approaching Villa Niscemi, once a home of Fulco Verdura.
Buffet luncheon on the terrace of Villa Niscemi.
Mayor Leoluca Orlando is flanked by Catharine Hamilton and Princess Beatrice.
John and Theresa Viola. Faith Coolidge on the balcony overlooking Parco della Favorita.
Mayor Leoluca Orlando guides the group through Villa Niscemi. Suzanne McDonough, Catharine Hamilton, and Mayor Leoluca Orlando.
Engaged couple Philip Hartung and Bonnie Deutsch.
Fruit desserts at Villa Niscemi.
Candlelit dinners were preceded by commentary showing us around the noble family homes. At Palermo’s Palazzo Raffadali spunky Princess Stefania pointed out a portrait of a portly ancestor she described as resembling “a potato.” Baron Calefati di Canalotti hosted dinner in the sumptuous red dining room of 15th-century Palazzo Ajutamiscristo. Before our closing night dinner when we each received an “official” Royal Passport to Sicily prepared by Princess Beatrice. Prince Ruggero Moncado served cocktails in what had been his grandmother’s overwhelming bathroom. We spent one evening admiring the extensive gardens and modern artworks in the Catania home of entrepreneur/artist Rossella Pezzino de Geronimo whose books of photographs engrossed us all.
Approaching the Gothic portal of Palazzo Raffadali.
Princess Stefania greeted us at Palazzo Raffadali.
Pink candles and roses at Palazzo Raffadali. Curry Glassell.
Baron Calefati greets AFV President and Founder Catharine Hamilton.
William Maroney with Baron Calefati’s daughter Anna.
Pet pillow pooches on a sofa.
Canapes and cocktails preceded dinner.
Dinner at Palazzo Ajutamicristo. Inset: After dinner coffee and sweets were served on the terrace.
Prince Ruggero Moncada and his wife Nicolleta were the hosts at Palazzo Biscari. Admiring Palazzo Biscari’s elaborate staircase.
Palazzo Biscari dining room set for our tour’s closing dinner.
Princess Beatrice presented each of us a Royal Sicilian passport. Susan Higinbotham admires her new Sicilian passport.
Nicole DiBona. Theresa Viola.
Baron Roland de l’Espee and Dr. Susan Kendall.
Faith Coolidge and Curry Glassell.
At Le Stanze in Fiore we met garden designer, entrepreneur, artist, hostess Rossella Pezzino de Geronimo.
Admiring the garden and books of photographs taken by the hostess.
Photograph by Rossella Pezzino de Geronimo.
Enjoying the buffet dinner served at Le Stanze in Fiore.
Centerpiece arranged of natural materials by our hostess.
Penelope Holloway and John Parkerson.
Confiding that he had happened upon Palazzo di Lorenzo di Cestelluccio as an abandoned ruin in the picturesque Baroque town of Noto — Jean-Louis Remilleux described peeking through the door at what appeared to be “pigeon paradise.” The noted French television producer bought it and proceeded to restore it and stock it with a massive collection of objects. Invited to see his astonishing restoration of the large palace we marveled at its replica silver wallpaper, stuffed foxes and alligators in the cabinet of curiosities, rounded library cabinets, surfaces covered literally “wall to wall” (!) in framed pictures, engravings, paintings, and prints. As the Palazzo will be opened next spring to the public, dinner was served in Remilleux’s personal quarters adjacent to Noto’s only private palazzo garden.

One moonlit night in the outdoor gardens of his family estate Castelluccio, Don Luigi Bonaccorsi Principe di Reburdone hosted a ceremony uniting our engaged couple Bonnie Deutsch and Philip Hart in marriage. Strumming musicians then led us off to a candlelit dinner which wound up with all of us dancing.

Clockwise from above: Arriving at Palazzo di Lorenzo di Castelluccio in Noto; Palazzo di Lorenzo di Castelluccio’s imposing entrance; Jean-Louis Remilleux, Princess Beatrice, and former AFV President le Vicomte.
Former AFV President Baron Roland d’Espee discusses antiques with the owner.
Relaxing before dinner.
Stuffed animals, shells, butterflies are among the collections in Remiilleux’s cabinet of curiosities.
In Remilleux’s curvy library, one set of bookcases swings open to reveal a passage to the lower floor.
Engaged couple John Viola and Nicole DiBona in the drawing room. Princess Beatrice and John Parkerson in the garden, Noto’s only private palazzo garden.
Jean-Louis Remilleux welcomes the group at dinner.
Dinner at Palazzo Castelluccio was festive.
Curry Glassell and Faith Coolidge in front of the dining room’s painted walls.
David Hamilton leads the commitment ceremony for Bonnie Deutsch and Philip Hartung.
Strolling minstrels serenade the newly married couple.
Catharine Hamilton, Princess Beatrice, and host Don Luigi Bonaccorsi Principe di Reburdone congratulate the couple.
Princess Beatrice with host Don Luigi Bonaccorsi Principe di Reburdone.
A candlelit dinner was held in celebration.
Dinner was followed by dancing.
Traveling between sites on our comfortable coach.
With its rich multi-cultural heritage, Sicily is full of UNESCO Heritage Sites and special officials, guides, and hosts led us through the historic locations. Monsignor Tulipano showed us around the magnificent Royal Palace and Palatine Chapel, allowing us access to the original 12th century Norman “Crypt Chapel” which is not open to the public. The Palace is now the seat of Sicilian parliament but still retains royal and official portraits in elaborately decorated corridors and rooms.
Touring the Royal Palace.
Portraits of royalty adorn walls in the Palace apartments.
Detail of the spectacular Palatine Chapel.
The lower Crypt Chapel not customarily open to the public.
The mosaic floor of the Crypt Chapel.
Aimee Maroney and former AFV President le Vicomte Olivier de Rohan.
A more casual palace is the Little Chinese House located in Parco della Favorita, a summer residence of Princess Beatrice’s forebears King Ferdinand and Queen Maria Carolina. We saw the queen’s draped bed and pictures of her husband and children painted on the walls of her dressing room. The dining room’s elaborate dumb-waiter allowed the plate at each place to be changed in the room below, allowing guests to dine privately without servants present in the room.
The Little Chinese House was once a royal vacation residence.
Sister of Marie Antoinette, Queen Maria Carolina was the great, great, great, great grandmother of Princess Beatrice.
Mounted on wheels, Queen Maria Carolina’s bed could be situated to catch cool breezes.
A clever dumb-waiter at each place allowed plates to be changed without the presence of servants.
Started by the Princess Beatrice’s ancestors, with plantings from every continent, Palermo’s Orto Botanico is one of Europe’s most excellent subtropical gardens. Director Francisco Raimondo told us it was “like visiting the garden of the world.”
Director Francisco Raimondo greeted us in the temple-like entrance to the Orto Botanico.
Princess Beatrice with a model of the original garden structure.
Sensitive plants are cultivated in the greenhouse.
Director Raimondo pointed out water repellant leaves.
John Viola and fiancee Nicole DiBona.
Vicomte Olivier’s cell phone bears his Rohan family coat of arms.
In Palermo’s most famous medieval church the Martorana, Papa Luigi Maria Lucini invited us to see the still private clerestory where nuns looked down through steel netting to observe services below at the altar made of lapis presented by the czar to an ancestor of Princess Beatrice.
Papa Luigi Maria Lucini guided us around the Martorana.
At the Martorana nuns viewed services through an elaborate metal gate.
The Martorana altar is made of lapis Czar Nicholas donated to the royal family. Dr. Susan Kendall rests on the clerestory bench where nuns knelt to observe Martorana church services.
Our evening visit to Palermo’s extraordinary Cathedral Monreale opened dramatically with organ music playing as the lights were gradually raised to reveal the exquisite Arab-Norman interior of the church known as the “Golden Temple.”
Arcivescovo Michele Pennisi led our evening visit to Monreale Cathedral. Monreale Cathedral was dramatically lit for our visit at dusk.
The next day, charming music on the violin, organ, and voice enhanced our visit to the private Oratorio delle Dame where noble women once came to pray and serve the poor within walls decorated with elaborate paintings and frescos.
Through the door, a leafy path leads to the Oratorio chapel.
A painting over the altar represents the noblewomen who gathered here to do good works. Princess Beatrice’s 19th-century ancestor Queen Maria Carolina served as Prior.
During the music we admire the extraordinary painting of Palermo’s master painter Giacomo Serpotta.
We visited the Villa Palagonia decorated with “monsters” which led Goethe to invent the neologism “Pallogonic” to describe crazy, chaotic works.
Grotesques decorate the eaves of Villa Palagonia.
Michele Fouan examines a monster fountain.
In Syracuse and Taromina, guides explained the ruins of Greek and Roman amphitheaters, and we were astonished to view the world’s most extensive remaining mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale, a 5th-century AD Roman estate high in the island’s interior.
The floors of 4th century Villa Romana del Casale retain the world’s most extensive Roman mosaics.
Wall to wall mosaics at Casale …
The Viola family visiting the ruins of the Greek Temple at Syracuse.
Ruins of the historic Greek and Roman theater at Taromina.
Susan Higinbotham with Taromina and cloud capped Mt. Etna in the background.
Fine dining is also a feature of the AFV journeys. Customarily each day’s full course lunches and dinners are presented in private homes, but we did have a chance to sample Chef Angelo Treno’s sophisticated modern cuisine, concluding with crunchy honey ricotta mousse for dessert at the countryside inn of Al Fogher. Sardinian specialties at Catania’s Osteria Bello Antonio included salty orange, caponata, and sardine antipasti and miracle local cassata cheesecake.
Al Fogher chef Angelo Treno poses with Princess Beatrice. Little Blunderbus veal sausage with crisp vegetables was served at Al Fogher.
Susan and Harlow Higinbotham seated at Ostaria Bello Antonio.
Osteria Bello Antonio’s renowned caponata.
Ostaria Bello Antonio’s specialty cheesecake.
And our concluding luncheon was held amidst the amazing gardens of Taromina’s San Domenico Hotel on a terrace overlooking the sea and hovering over the Cape of Noxos which was the site of Sicily’s original Greek settlement, concluding our voyage where the country had begun.
The tour concluded at Taromina’s San Domenico Palace Hotel.
Closing luncheon at San Domenico Palace Hotel.
Ragusano cheese gratin was served at lunch.
Catharine Hamilton relaxes after an exhausting but fascinating trip.
Curry Glassell shows the set of souvenir plates each of us took home.
Princess Beatrice presented each of us with a Royal Passport to Sicily.
Final views of the Sicilian coast.

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Joe Passero

Designer Interviews Q&A’s

Founded almost 100 years ago in Norwalk, Klaffs built its reputation on selling building supplies and household fixtures. Third generation executive Joe Passero worked his way up through the family business from stockroom to decorative plumbing specialist to kitchen and bathroom designer.

Download the complete article from Cottages and Gardens January 2017

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St. Kilda, Melbourne

AustraliaDecember 2016DestinationsEditorialMagazine

Photo: St. Kilda Pier © DONALD YIP | DREAMSTIME.COM

By  – December 1, 2016

It may be hard to tear away from the abundance of colorful shops and cafés in the compact urban grid of central Melbourne, but this is a waterside city, after all, and it’s only fitting to try out the beach. Three miles south of the center you’ll find the attractions of hip and bohemian St. Kilda, where a historic pier juts into Port Philip Bay, the Esplanade skirts the beach, and restaurants and cafés abound.

With a fascinating history — the precinct was once the city’s red-light district — the neighborhood evolved into an upscale hangout. Outdoors a breakwater juts into the bay, allowing visitors to walk out to get a glimpse of the penguin colony in residence since the 1970s. Lessons are offered for those who want to join the kite surfers floating overhead on the wafting winds. Sundays a huge arts, crafts and local foods market sets up along the curve of the Esplanade, and at the far end nostalgia seekers can venture through the gaping open-mouthed gate of the clown entrance to Luna Park and take a ride on the Scenic Railway, the world’s oldest continuously operating roller coaster.

Luna Park amusement park at St. Kilda Beach

LUNA PARK AMUSEMENT PARK AT ST. KILDA BEACH © CHU-WEN LIN | DREAMSTIME.COM

But don’t miss the main attraction: joining the friendly locals relaxing in the vibrant restaurants and bars clustered around the hub of Fitzroy and Acland streets. Bustling Rococo serves its signature antipasti boards along with risottos, panini and red or white pizzas. In the cozy dining room of longtime favorite Café Di Stasio, sample chef specialty “Italianalty” dishes with fresh pasta made twice daily and Negronis set out on the high marble bar. Look for the reopening of the redesigned fish and chips kiosk and Pontoon restaurant of Stokehouse on the Beach, devastated by fire in 2014. Popular Claypots Seafood Bar boasts “the best seafood in Australia,” but the all-time favorite remains Donovans, perched right on the shore with floor-to-ceiling windows, sofas and sandstone fireplaces. From its menu of stylish comfort food select the favorite of beloved Australian entertainer Barry Humphries, aka Dame Edna Everage, who confided we should order grilled snapper with lemon.

Performers from Trevor Noah to Julio Iglesias appear at the historic Art Deco Palais Theatre. Steps away, catch a concert, ballet or show at the National Theatre Melbourne. A soothing, two-hour Renew or Unwind session at the Aurora Spa of the ultra-modern Prince Hotel proves a good way to wind up a day at the beach.

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Marriott Syracuse Hotel

Story and photos by Sharon King Hoge in Luxury Web

Marriott Syracuse Hotel mural over reception desk pictures city highlights

While fancy contemporary resorts and spas are proliferating around the world, for an enjoyable return to the elegance and nostalgia of the good old days, check into the newly “rescued” grand hotel of Syracuse, New York.  Presidents Eisenhower and Kennedy, Elvis, the Rolling Stones, John Lennon all experienced past splendors of the Hotel Syracuse which dates from 1924. Allowed to deteriorate, it was literally brought back to life by a local group which has spent $76 million dollars reviving it, in a transformation spearheaded by Syracuse home town architect Ed Reilly, who had previously overseen renovation of the Fairfax in DC, San Francisco’s Claremont, and the Biltmore in Phoenix.  Rechristened the Marriott Syracuse Hotel, Syracuse’s grand dowager is once again a luxury lodging. Continue reading

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