Riyadh: City At A Crossroads

One of the fastest-growing cities in the world, the population in Arabia’s hub of government administration, financial services, industry and agriculture has grown 8.1 percent per year, surging in half a century from 20,000 to 4.7 million people. Today, it is home to one-tenth of the country’s population. Predicted to reach 6 million by 2007, the city, fanning over 600 square miles, often is compared to Los Angeles, yet the differences are extreme in this urban center where modernization conflicts with the conservative religion.

The motto on the kingdom’s green flag — “There is no God but God; and Muhammad is his Messenger” — emphasizes the political/religious alliance that has endured in this nation since the early 18th century when religious reformer Mohammed ibn Abd al-Wahhab, seeking refuge in outlying Dir’aiyah, joined forces with the local emir Mohammed ibn al-Saud. After two centuries of upheaval, the emir’s descendent Abdul Aziz ibn Abdul Rahman ibn al-Saud (Ibn Saud) recaptured Riyadh in 1902, establishing the kingdom there in 1932.

Located in the heart of the Arabian Peninsula, remote from the more cosmopolitan ports of Jeddah and Damman, Riyadh remains fastidiously devout. Religious holidays are observed, and five times a day residents face Mecca and pray. Drinking alcohol and working on Sunday are strictly prohibited. Media coverage is monitored, and the year 2006 is marked here as year 1427 on the Muslim calendar.

Many visitors from overseas are taken aback by the Muslim practice of segregating women. Floor-length black abayas and head scarves are required cover in public and unmarried women and men are not allowed to intermingle. Restaurants and public places reserve separate, often secluded, spaces for families, and even MacDonald’s maintains separate cash registers for single men and family groups. Ironically, in the auto-based economy, women aren’t allowed to drive or own cars.

Enforcing the orthodox rules, Mutawwa moral vigilantes patrol the streets chiding women with uncovered heads, men wearing shorts, people using public telephones during prayer times. But Riyadh has a potentially rambunctious population of expats and young citizens. One-third of the residents are foreign workers, and more than half the population is younger than 19 years old. Increasingly, the conservative religious culture is confronting energy aimed at change.

Modernization, which began in the 1940s, has developed through a series of five-year development plans unveiled in 1970. In 1999 the Supreme Economic Council was created to boost investment, combat unemployment, promote privatization and streamline economic policy. Overseas investment is encouraged and foreigners have gained the right to own property and to operate businesses without a majority Saudi shareholder. Capping a 12-year application effort, in December 2005, Saudi Arabia became the 149th member of the World Trade Association.

With the world’s largest reserves of petroleum, Saudi Arabia’s oil sector is its single biggest engine for growth. Record-high oil prices last year resulted in export revenues of $106 billion, and current plans are to double refining capacity to 6 million barrels per day within five years “to meet the world’s increasing demand for oil,” said Minister of Petroleum and Mineral Resources Ali Al-Naimi. Twenty billion dollars are earmarked to build new refineries and to boost the capacity of eight refineries Riyadh owns inside and outside the country.

T o relieve reliance on oil, the Saudis have encouraged diversification, and the non-oil private sector now represents 44 percent of the economy, 60 percent of the GNP. Burgeoning industries – petrochemicals and plastics, food processing, power industries and water desalination – seek Western know-how and technology. Steel is a thriving industry and mineral exploration has turned up promising sites for gold, silver, copper, iron, and platinum, aluminum and phosphates. Infrastructure development has fueled a construction boom, and growth of the telecom sector is substantial. Cell phone penetration is 32 percent, expected to grow to 60 percent by 2014.

ATMs are prevalent all around the city, which play major roles in retail and wholesale services, trade and finance. The stock market is the largest in the Arab world, and the banking sector is posting record profits. Saudi’s 11 commercial banks operate on the universal model, and during the first quarter of 2005 their capital and reserves increased by 22.4 percent and profits rose to SR 5.1 billion ($400 million).

One of the major agricultural areas of the kingdom (Riyadh is derived from the Arab word rawdah, meaning a place of gardens and trees), the city is a market and distributing center. A drive for self-sufficiency initiated by the 1973 oil embargo has resulted in high production rates. One-third of the country’s dates, tomatoes and watermelons are grown here and half the national production of clover, muskmelon and wheat.

Just southeast of Riyadh, at the world’s largest “integrated” dairy farm (certified in the Guinness Book of Records), scrawny cattle, in sheds cooled down to 80 degrees by water-spraying Korral Koolers, eke out enough milk to make créme caramel and yogurt-like strawberry laban, which is transported by trucks throughout the kingdom.

With excellent highways, a rail system and an international airport, Riyadh is the transportation hub for the kingdom’s 33,000 miles of road surface. In a country roughly the size of western Europe, private jet ownership is growing to meet the needs of business commuters. Landbridge, an ambitious project seeking foreign investment, eventually will result in a 1,100-mile rail system linking the dry port of Riyadh to Saudi Arabia’s east and west coasts.

Although it’s no longer the case that only Muslim pilgrims are allowed to visit, Riyadh remains a traveler’s challenge. Uneasy about introducing foreign elements, the country focuses on pilgrims and regional travel. “Our target and most important tourist is the Saudi Arabian resident,” said Prince Sultan bin Salman bin Abdul Aziz al Saud, the one-time astronaut who now heads the tourism commission.

Because much of the historic city has been demolished, sightseers in Riyadh should take in the National Museum’s exhibits on the history, geology and culture of the country. At the museum, permits are granted for visits to the king’s fortress-like Murabba Palace. Openly accessible are Masmak Fortress, the site of Ibn Saud’s 1902 recapture, which is one of few original structures still standing, and the nearby restored Al-Thumairi Gate, a remnant of the city wall. The King Abdul Aziz Historical Area, a huge complex of gardens, fountains and footpaths, is a big attraction. In the planning stage, Thumamah Park will be an entertainment destination with camp sites, sporting centers, an aviation club and racetrack built among Riyadh’s escarpments and sand dunes.

Outside travelers require a visa based on an invitation that must come from a resident friend, business associate or colleague. Reviewing the applications might be arbitrary and repeated submissions could be required. “Sometimes it takes me six months to get a visa, sometimes it’s only two weeks,” observed Rachel Bronson, director of Middle Eastern Studies for the Council on Foreign Relations. Since requests for random travel present a dilemma to strict traditionalists, recreational tourists may find it’s easier to visit with an organized tour, particularly trips arranged by alumni associations and museums.

LODGING

AL-FAISALIAH HOTEL

Located conveniently in the heart of the commercial Olaya area on seven floors of the 876-foot landmark angled tower, the second-tallest building in the country, the Rosewood group’s “Jewel of the Middle East” recently introduced 24-hour butler service and incorporates five international restaurants. $$$$
AL-FAISALIAH HOTEL
King Fahad Road, Olaya
tel 00 966 1 273 2000, fax 00 966 1 273 2001
www.rosewoodhotels.com

FOUR SEASONS RIYADH AT KINGDOM CENTER

This coolly elegant hotel occupies floors 15 to 24 of the distinctive notched Kingdom Centre. Three restaurants, a pool and spa services including a eucalyptus steam room are among the amenities. The nine-hole Palms Golf & Country Club is a sevenminute drive away. $$$$
FOUR SEASONS RIYADH AT KINGDOM CENTRE
Kingdom Centre
tel 00 966 1 211 5000, fax 00 966 1 211 5001
www.fourseasons.com

INTERCONTINENTAL RIYADH

The capital city flagship of the biggest operating chain in the country is located on a 100-acre site with its own large gardens, nine-hole golf course, 12-lane bowling alley, indoor pool and beauty salon. Three restaurants and a poolside snack bar are included. $$$$
INTER-CONTINENTAL HOTEL
Maazar Street
tel 00 966 1 465 5000, fax 00 966 1 465 7833
www.intercontinental.com

DINING

GLOBE

The glass bubble of this Geodesic dome restaurant in Al-Faisaliah Tower offers views of the city from tables ringing the perimeter. French and British seafood, steak and chicken dishes are offered both a la carte and in the buffet. The strawberry, watermelon and wine Fireball Cocktail is a specialty. The restaurant is the setting for the city’s first cigar lounge. $$$$
GLOBE
Al-Faisaliah Tower
tel 00 966 1 373 3000

SPAZIO 77
The 77th floor of Kingdom Tower is the setting for this dining venue where the two-star Michelin chef in residence’s international menu features sushi plus French and Italian cuisine. $$$$
SPAZIO 77
Kingdom Tower
tel 00 966 1 211 1888, fax 966 1 211 1182
www.spazio77.com

AL-NAKHEEL

Harira lamb and lentil soup with a tomato base, Hamoure fish with roasted potatoes, roasted lamb, and shrimp chowder are among the local dishes at Al-Nakheel, said to serve the finest Arabic cuisine in the kingdom. Palm fronds and beaten metal doors embellish the decor. $$$$
AL-NAKHEEL
Hotel Al-Khozama
Olaya Street
tel 00 966 1 465 4650

DIVERSIONS

Riyadh offers some of the best shopping in Saudi Arabia with Chanel, Gucci, Hermes, and practically every international luxury retailer located in the malls particularly around Olaya Street. Be aware that because sales staffs are predominantly male, fitting rooms for women may not be provided. Handicrafts are sold at Lamsa in the lobby of the National Museum. There is a gold souk near the Palace of Justice, and the Abha Market specializes in woven baskets. Flea market aficionados can browse for silver daggers, Bedouin bags, half-moon pendants, and dangling silver earrings in the Souq al-Thumairi, south of the Masmak Fortress. Expect most prices to be negotiable.

With alcoholic cocktails forbidden, no bars or movie theaters, and hobnobbing frowned upon, Riyadh is not the place to come for nightlife. Most entertaining is done within the home or in private hotel meeting rooms.

Checking In with Joanne Chicco
President of Professional Systems and Services, Inc.

Since 1991 headhunter Joanne Chicco has been placing doctors, nurses and support staff in Saudia Arabian hospitals. She has traveled in the country and is familiar with the customs and requirements of the kingdom.

Global Traveler: How did you get into the business of recruiting overseas workers?
Joanne Chicco: I graduated with a degree in philosophy. While in school, I met many Saudis who were students in the local area. I started consulting for health care doing financial management and accounting. Saudi friends would call on me for references, and since I already had the company, I added that service. Since 1993 all my recruiting has been for medical services in Saudi Arabia. I have contracts to recruit for six to 10 different hospitals.

GT: What opportunities are there for health workers?
JC: About 50 percent of the country’s huge hospitals are located in Riyadh. It’s the capital and it’s a big medical center. They need people constantly. I recruit chemists, microbiologists, lab technicians, secretaries, occupational and physical therapists and therapists for radiation and respiration. On any one day I hear from five hospitals. Most of the nurses in their hospitals are men, but they don’t want men ministering to women, so they look wherever they can find them (female nurses). They don’t provide family housing for nurses. Since most women in nursing are mothers, it creates a big shortage. India and the Philippines are two big suppliers. Nurses from the UK or Canada are hired to manage.

GT: How do workers find a place to live?
JC: The employer provides furnished housing. They only expect you to bring your suitcase. You end up living in compounds — communities nearby where you work, part of a group. You’ve all come from somewhere else, so you all need each other. It’s very cohesive, not isolating. You make friends, travel and have a social life.

GT: What are the drawbacks of working in Riyadh?
JC: It’s a very different way of life. There is no dating as we know it. There are no bars or movie theaters. Women can’t drive anywhere. Everything is behind closed doors. There’s no public display of culture in any way. You are hard pressed to find a museum. For example, in Africa, you’re apt to see dances, banquets, local culture. In Saudi Arabia you never see it.

GT: But there must be benefits of working in Riyadh?
JC: Imagine your life if you didn’t have to pay for health, car, utilities, taxes — your only expense is food. Your salary is yours to keep as cash in the bank. You don’t have to share it with anybody. That’s appealing to many people.

For people practicing medicine, it’s a different style of treatment. You actually see patients. You have time to be a practitioner, to establish relationships with your patients who are very appreciative. There’s no worry about insurance and malpractice, so you don’t have to have an office and be a businessman. Many physicians familiar with life in the Middle East want to go back to that easier lifestyle.

GT: With limited recreational activities, what kind of lifestyle is there?
JC: It’s just a much slower pace. You have time to be with family. And vacation is an actual rest, not a time to paint the house or clean the closets. You have a month off and you’re expected to go somewhere and do something with your life.

GT: What are the logistics of coping with the kingdom’s rules?
JC: Language is not a problem. The medical system is in English. They only want people who speak English. If you speak only Arabic, they probably won’t hire you.

Western women do have to wear an abaya, neck to toes, in public. Nurses wear regular, modest nurse uniforms in the hospital, so it looks like any hospital in the world. But as soon as they leave the building, women have to cover from their head to toes.

GT: What pitfalls do you see ex-pats encountering?
JC: It’s different from relocating to New York City or to Philadelphia. You can’t just get on a plane and go. Once hired, it takes about two months to get people there. There are work and business visas to secure. Everyone needs a sponsor; the employer handles that. A lot of time expectations are way beyond reality; you’re not going to make millions of dollars in Saudi Arabia.

GT: Is it safe to live there?
JC: People may be afraid of terrorism, but the most dangerous thing you can do is get in a car. There are no seat belts, and only men drive, so road traffic accidents are the No. 1 problem treated in emergency rooms.

GT: What are your own impressions of the country?
JC: It’s so built up — it’s a huge city, just an enormous place with Sheratons, Hiltons, Mercedes-Benz and monstrous malls. My impression was, “I came this far and it looks just like home.” I was chagrined that it wasn’t more exotic. I was always trying to look behind the scenes to see what’s there, but you can’t. Family life is hidden behind walls. There’s lots of money and it’s kind of ironic — you’ll see a couple riding in a BMW listening to the Rolling Stones blaring on the radio, and he’ll be in his flowing robe and she’ll be under the veil.