Taipei: Tempting Taipei

Democracy is new to the island that 16th century Portuguese explorers named Formosa, meaning “beautiful.” The island’s people — aborigines and immigrants from the Chinese province of Fujian — endured two centuries of control by the Ching dynasty and then colonization by the Dutch and Japanese. Returned to China after the Japanese defeat in World War II, Taiwan became the refuge of Chiang Kaishek’s Nationalist Kuomintang. Taking up what it expected to be temporary residence in 1949, the KMTº instituted land reforms and led the transition from an agricultural economy based on rice, sugar and tobacco (and opium) to one based on small-industry development.

“Made in Taiwan” became a familiar label on umbrellas, concrete and garments as the island grew into a leading manufacturer of consumer goods. When export processing zones were established in Taiwan in 1966, overseas companies invested heavily, bringing electronics, machinery, plastics and textiles to the fore. By the 1980s, progress in high technology paved the way for Taiwan’s change from a labor-intensive economy to a technology-and-capital intensive economy.

But the KMT regime was harsh. Repeated protests led to the formation of the Democratic Progressive Party in 1986, a major step in the transition toward a multiparty democratic system. That transition culminated in the 2000 election of President Chen Shui-bian, the first peaceful transfer of power from one party to another in Chinese history.

With 23 million people inhabiting an island half the size of West Virginia, Taiwan is second only to Bangladesh in population density. More than 10 percent of those people — a young energetic work force attracted to jobs in the emerging technology sector — reside in Taipei. And it’s affordable: Taipei scores as the world’s 44th most expensive city in which to live, far below Tokyo, at No. 1, and New York City, at No. 23.

Taipei is a city that works. A clean, modern rapid-transit system relieves traffic congestion. Stoplights count down the seconds before changing color, and timing can be adjusted to ensure that traffic flows smoothly on the city’s clean, treelined three-lane boulevards. Cleanliness and courtesy prevail. Even the crowded night markets are free of refuse and debris. Parks and monuments provide immaculate green space, with signs admonishing visitors, “Take kind care of the flowers and trees.” Museum-goers are cautioned, “No entry for those wearing slippers or slovenly dress.”

Taiwan struggled through the financial collapse and dot-com setbacks of the late ’80s, with industrial output accounting for half the GDP in 1986, but only 31 percent in 2002. But demand from foreign buyers contributed to a strong upturn in 2003, resulting in economic growth of 2.3 percent—one of the best rates in the Far East. With a current GDP of $308 billion, Taiwan is one of the world’s top 20 economies.

The world’s 14th largest foreign trader, Taiwan plays a crucial role in the global IT market, and is the third largest hardware manufacturer and the fourth largest semiconductor supplier. Initially licensed to produce foreign brands, Taiwan’s manufacturers are increasingly exporting under their own labels. The service sector, notably insurance and banking, is thriving.

But business competition poses challenges. Rising energy costs are a concern on an island with meager natural resources, leading some manufacturers to relocate overseas. In 2002, to help boost and sustain development, the government launched a “Challenge 2008 National Development Plan.” With the goals of raising R&D spending, doubling the number of tourists, creating new job opportunities and boosting the economic growth rate above 5 percent, the country hopes to establish itself as a “green silicon island” before the end of the decade.

Of course, any look to the future has to take into account Taiwan’s uneasy status with China, which considers the island a “renegade” territory. Led by President Chen, who is wildly unpopular in Beijing, the island’s pro-independence movement was steadily gaining ground until a midterm surge by the Nationalist KMT, which espouses reconciliation, moderated those gains.

Early in 2005, when the United States and Japan announced continued political support of Taiwan, the Chinese government reiterated its intent to use force if the “splittists” became too prominent. In Taiwan, both local parties joined forces in a million-person protest. President Chen’s challenge is now to engineer a resolution or peaceful settlement.

The most visible symbol of the capital city’s aspirations is Taipei 101, a 1,667-foot-tall, 101-story structure designed to resemble a bamboo bundle, which holds court as the highest building in the world. Completed last year, it has a foundation sunk deep into bedrock to ensure stability in the event of an earthquake, and a 772-ton steel ball suspended inside to counteract wind force. The building itself anchors the city’s emerging Xinyi commercial center. City Hall Plaza, the International Trade Building and Convention Center, the sleek new Mitsukoshi department store, a multiscreen movie complex, New York New York Mall and the NEO 19 food court now draw people to what was once considered the remote part of town.

Civic monuments include colorful Buddhist, Taoist and Confucian temples; the gigantic pagoda-shaped art center that is the Sun Yat Sen Monument; and the red-brick Victorian-style presidential palace. In the center of the city, walls delineate the 65-acre Chiang Kai-shek Monument. Exhibits of the leader’s Cadillac limousines, medals and battle uniforms trace his story from protégé of Sun Yat Sen to Kuomintang general and leader. Climb 87 steps, one for each year of Chiang Kaishek’s life, to find a giant statue of the generalissimo presiding over the elaborate, boot-stomping, hourly change of the guards.

But Taipei’s greatest landmark is the National Palace Museum, for Taiwan is the repository of China’s imperial treasures. Threatened first by the 1931 Manchurian invasion and again in the 1948 civil war, the priceless jades, bronzes, paintings, imperial documents, scrolls and porcelains of Beijing’s Forbidden City were packed up and shipped to safety. Surviving fires, rains, landslides and insect plagues, the trove was eventually stashed in Taiwan and is currently housed in a sprawling green-roofed, white pagoda-style complex. The collection, which is shown in rotation, is said to be so extensive that if the exhibits were changed every six months it would take more than 30 years to show every object.

The city’s two most popular pastimes — shopping and eating — offer opportunities from souk to chic. Step back in time to browse centuries-old storefronts along historic Dihua Street selling Oriental herbs and exotic foods. Northwest of Taipei Central Station, just off Zhongxiao West, a jumble of alleyway shops sell discount clothing, bags of beads, bright Buddhist garlands and costume jewelry. Trendy shops, boutiques and brand-name retailers — Esprit, Gap, Puma — line the Dunhua section of Zhongxiao. The downtown Galleria and brand-new Shin-kong Mitsukoshis Mall showcase globally familiar luxury items from Yves Saint Laurent, Gucci, Valentino, Harry Winston and Boucheron.

One indisputable legacy of the KMT is food. Drawing on roots in provinces all over China, Chiang Kai-shek’s army brought along skilled chefs capable of creating diverse cuisines. Coupled with the Japanese influence and the recent influx of Western cooking, Taipei’s culinary scene is a compendium of the very best food in the world.

Homesick travelers find good old steaks, chops and salads at Dan Ryan’s Chicago Grill (8 Dunhua Road N., tel 2 2278 8800); German sausages at Zum Fass (55 Lane 119, Linsen Road N., tel 2 2531 3815); and top-notch Japanese at Momoyama (12 Zhongxiao Road E., Sec. L, tel 2 2321 5511, ext. 8085), a favorite of politicos. Indulge in pasta at the Far Eastern Plaza’s Marco Polo Restaurant or in Mediterranean specialties at Toscana (111 Min Sheng Road E., Sec. 3, tel 2 2718 1188).

According to the locals, eating is less a dining experience and more a food experience, so fancier restaurants are found in or near hotels catering to foreigners. The Golden Dragon at the Grand Hotel is the perennial Cantonese favorite. Behind a translucent calligraphy screen in the Grand Hyatt, Pearl Liang specializes in seafood dishes. For “new Chinese cuisine,” order bamboo fungus-and-straw-mushroom soup and volcano beef at En Vogue, near the Sherwood Hotel (311 Fu Xing Road N., tel 2 2547 2555).

Since Chinese meals are typically prepared for groups, hotel buffets are the best bet for diners traveling alone. The Grand Regent’s Brasserie, Yi Café at the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel, or the East West Buffet in the Westin (133 Nanking Road E., Sec. 3, tel 2 8770 6565) allow you to sample, yet spare the waste.

But the authentic gourmet experience is streetside dining. All over the city at every hour, sidewalk cooks serve up danzai noodles and oyster omelets, stir-fry shrimp and fish balls, dim sum and spicy pork ramen, and the crustiest, fluffiest donuts on earth. Pick out a shop or booth, point to the fish or crab or chicken leg or tofu chunk you prefer, and watch them prepare it on the spot. Even the squeamish can try this fare at the pristine new food court in Taipei 101’s basement.

After-hours, lively new clubs and nightspots appeal to the emerging cosmopolitan generation; a quarter of the city’s population is younger than 40. Taipei 101’s Club Mint, with its wall of wines, and the Grand Hyatt’s popular Ziga Zaga disco across the street draw a mix of locals and tourists. Farther south on Anhe Road, a cluster of hip bars includes Carnegie’s and Champagne 2, where the bubbly is infused with lychee flavor. In contrast, the Sherwood Hotel’s wood-paneled Henry’s Bar is a cozy but staid setting for fireside cocktails.

But the quintessence of shopping, eating and nightlife is found in the Taipei’s famous night markets, teeming with vendors, browsers and shoppers. Each one has its own distinct flavor: At Hushsi Street, there are Snake Alley’s cobras. Lingchiang Street is the place to find piles of trendy clothes. Liaoning, near the Westin, is strictly for food. The king of them all is Shihlin Night Market, a cacophony of vendors selling bowls of noodles, hawking carnival games and recruiting customers for open-air foot massage — a functional jumble of diversity and energy, it’s a microcosm of this top-notch Asian city.

LODGING

GRAND HYATT TAIPEI

Located in the World Trade Center complex, Grand Hyatt Taipei has a captive audience of conventiongoers. Still, the 850-room hotel pulls out all the stops. Grand Club upper floors offer complimentary concierge, breakfast, tea and cocktail services. The floor of roomy penthouse suites has been so successful it is being expanded to include the floor below.With an outdoor pool, a health club staffed by personal trainers, and the popular upscale Ziga Zaga nightclub, the Hyatt is a posh and convenient choice. $$$$
GRAND HYATT TAIPEI
2 Song Shout Road
tel 800 223 1234 or 886 2 2720 1234
fax 886 2 2720 1111
www.taipei.grand.hyatt.com

FAR EASTERN PLAZA HOTEL
A prized 10th century Buddhist statue perched in the lobby, among other Asian accents, welcomes guests to this 422-room hotel. A Shangri-La property, Far Eastern Plaza is located in a high-rise commercial complex right next to The Mall and is convenient to nearby business offices. A heated rooftop swimming pool offers dramatic views over the city to the north and west. $$$$
FAR EASTERN PLAZA HOTEL
201 Ton Haw Road S., Sec. 2
tel 800 942 5050 or 886 2 2378 8888
fax 886 2 2377 7777
www.shangri-la.com

SHERWOOD TAIPEI

A giant crystal feather chandelier and warm wooden paneling attract executives to this Leading Hotels of the World designee in the heart of Taipei’s financial district. An indoor pool, fitness center, saunas, massage and spa complement the 24-hour business center and wireless broadband Internet access. $$$$
SHERWOOD TAIPEI
111 Min Sheng Road E., Sec. 3
tel 866 2 2718 1188, fax 886 2 2713 0707
www.sherwood.com.tw

GRAND HOTEL
History buffs favor this massive 14-story pagoda-sequel pile, perched in splendid and remote isolation on a hill overlooking the city. Noted for exemplary service, it’s a favorite of locals who frequent the excellent restaurants and tranquil locale. Guestrooms offer a city or mountain view. $$$$
GRAND HOTEL
1 Chung Shan Road N., Sec. 4
tel 886 2 2886 8888, fax 886 2 2885 2885
www.grand-hotel.org

GRAND FORMOSA REGENT TAIPEI
Pricey shops surround this Four Seasons hotel, which hovers over luxury outlets in the heart of the city. With the Regent Galleria and duty-free shops, this is a favorite spot for Japanese tourists, and the spacious multi-floor lobby is a popular gathering place. $$$$
GRAND FORMOSA REGENT TAIPEI
G41 Chung Shan Road N., Sec. 2
tel 800 545 4000 or 886 2 2523 8000
fax 886 2 2523 2828
www.regenthotels.com/taipei

LES SUITES TAIPEI DA-AN

This 59-room centrally located boutique hotel is a refuge in the city center, convenient to both the financial and trendy shopping districts. Cozy and quiet, it offers the customary amenities, including Internet access, gym, library, business center and lounge bar. $$$$
LES SUITES TAIPEI DA-AN
135 Da-an Road, Sec. 1
tel 886 376 7831
www.epoquehotels.com/suitesdaan.html

Just the Facts

Location:

Taiwan lies off the southeastern coast of China, north of the Philippines, and is bordered by the Taiwan Strait and the East China, Philippine and South China seas. Taiwan is 245 miles long and up to 45 miles wide.

Protocol:

Two items to always carry are business cards and Chinese script addresses. Business instroductions aren’t complete without an exchange of cards – ideally, printed in both Chinese and English. Since transcriptions from Chinese to English vary (Dihua/Tiwah Street, Sin Yi/Xinyi), carrying a map or card with the Chinese characters ensures that practically any passerby can point you in the right direction.

Entry/exit requirements:

U.S. citizens can enter Taiwan without a visa for a stay up to 30 days. A passport valid for at least six months and a return ticket are also required, and visitors may not have a criminal record.

Time zone:

GMT+8

Phone code:

886

Currency:

Taiwan dollar (TWD)

Language:

Mandarin Chinese is the official language, but the local Taiwanese dialect, Japanese and English are also spoken.

Key industries:

Manufacturing, which dominates Taiwan’s industrial sector and accounts for more than 30 percent of the GDP; chemicals and petrochemicals; information technology; electronics; and emerging industries such as computer hardware and software, and telecommunications.

INFO TO GO

International passengers arrive at Chiang Kai-shek Airport (CKS), about 30 miles southwest of the city. Expect to pay about $40 for taxi service into the city. An airport shuttle bus (about $5) picks up passengers at stops around the city. Airport pickups can also be arranged with hotels for a fee. Metered yellow taxis circulate around the city, but MRT, Taipei’s rapid-transit system, is a convenient and efficient alternative. Fares range from about $1 to $3. A stored-value Easy Card can be purchased for multiple trips.